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Shark's Fin Full Report

Image from Google American climbers Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk climbed Meru Central (6310m) via the Shark's Fin in a twelve-day push. They summited on October 2 to become the first team to complete this highly sought-after objective. The Shark's Fin has repelled many experienced alpinists, with attempts on this line numbering in the dozens. This was Anker's third attempt to establish a route up the Fin, and the second attempt for both Chin and Ozturk. Over the years, the trio has accumulated thirty-plus days


Two Big New Routes in Pakistan

Image from Google A Slovenian team climbed a major new route on K7 West in Pakistans Charakusa Valley this summer, while an American duo made the first ascent of a 6,540-meter (21,457) peak in the valley. Slovenians Nejc Marčič and Luka Stražar climbed the second route to the summit of K7 West (6,934m/22,749), making only the third ascent [...]


More on K7 West

Image from Google Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar climbed a new route on K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. The duo completed the alpine-style ascent of Dreamers of Golden Caves (VI A2 M5, 1600m) in four days, between September 6 and 9. This likely marks the second route to reach the summit and the third ascent overall of K7 West. The peak's climbing history began in 1982, when a Japanese team attempted K7 West via the west ridge. They left behind bolts, pins, fixed-cable ladders and an unclimbed ...


Evel Knievel

Only a few days to go until Kalymnos 2011, so time to get some training in on something steep. Frey Yule's route Evel Knievel 29/8a at Coolum was a likely target. It starts up Evil Wears No Pants 30/8a+ with a burly, 70 degree overhung, 11 move boulder to a good kneebar before cutting a traverse directly left for several bodylengths and then a transition back to "up" climbing to finish up the last three or so bolts of the route Ground Control . I'd been on the route in March this year while conditions were


Black Hole Sun, 3 pitch F7a+ in Twll Mawr

Image from Google Just as the final deadline for the forthcoming Llanberis Slate guide arrives Ian Lloyd-Jones has struck again with another astonishing multi pitch route in Twll Mawr. Ian teamed up with his usual partner in crime, Sion McGuinness, plus Phil Dowthwaite and Andy Schofield, who had got the third ascent of Supermassive Black Hole a few [...]


Cerro Torre Trip Report

Image from Google Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...


Bold Youth Repeats Rare Lichen (E9 6c)

Calum Muskett took time out from his A-level studies to make the third ascent of the very bold Rare Lichen (E9 6c) on Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet), Ogwen Valley.


Bold Youth Repeats Rare Lichen (E9 6c)

Calum Muskett took time out from his A-level studies to make the third ascent of the very bold Rare Lichen (E9 6c) on Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet), Ogwen Valley.


Greg Boswell Repeats The Hurting XI,11

Young Scottish climber Greg Boswell has continued his amazing season with a ground-up ascent of The Hurting on the Fiacall Buttress at Coire an t-Sneachda in the Cairngorms. This is the third ascent of the route after Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner.


Enzo Oddo, Ambrosia (v11 super-highball)

Just heard that 15-year-old French prodigy Enzo Oddo repeated Ambrosia yesterday. He must have been wanting to get it done before the bad weather moved in as it was a very windy day up there! He had previously top-roped the upper part of the line and bouldered out the start, using the same direct version that Isaac Caldiero had used on the third ascent .