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Shark's Fin Full Report

from The Alpinist - newswire
Keywords:
Shark's fin, Fin, Anker, Chin, attempt, Meru, team, Ozturk, climb, route

Image from Google American climbers Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk climbed Meru Central (6310m) via the Shark's Fin in a twelve-day push. They summited on October 2 to become the first team to complete this highly sought-after objective. The Shark's Fin has repelled many experienced alpinists, with attempts on this line numbering in the dozens. This was Anker's third attempt to establish a route up the Fin, and the second attempt for both Chin and Ozturk. Over the years, the trio has accumulated thirty-plus days

published: 7 months ago | downloaded: 7 months ago | 55 views
related: All-Star Team Climbs Meru's Shark's Fin, Anker Chin Ozturk Climb Meru's Shark's Fin, Exotic New Routes on Greenland's Big Walls, Men's Journal Goes Climbing in Borneo, Saser Kangri II In Alpine Style

Two Big New Routes in Pakistan

from www.arareko.net
Keywords:
K7 West, Pakistan, 6,540-meter, Slovenians Nejc Marčič, summit of K7 West, American duo, Luka Stražar, peak in the valley, Two Big New Routes, valley

Image from Google A Slovenian team climbed a major new route on K7 West in Pakistans Charakusa Valley this summer, while an American duo made the first ascent of a 6,540-meter (21,457) peak in the valley. Slovenians Nejc Marčič and Luka Stražar climbed the second route to the summit of K7 West (6,934m/22,749), making only the third ascent [...]

published: 7 months ago | downloaded: 7 months ago | 24 views
related: More fun in the Valley, Pakistan: K7 West attempt, by Cecilia Buil

More on K7 West

from The Alpinist - newswire
Keywords:
K7, West, K7 West, Prezelj, Charakusa, Slovenia, Dreamers of Golden Caves, Marcic, Strazar, ridge

Image from Google Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar climbed a new route on K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. The duo completed the alpine-style ascent of Dreamers of Golden Caves (VI A2 M5, 1600m) in four days, between September 6 and 9. This likely marks the second route to reach the summit and the third ascent overall of K7 West. The peak's climbing history began in 1982, when a Japanese team attempted K7 West via the west ridge. They left behind bolts, pins, fixed-cable ladders and an unclimbed ...

published: 7 months ago | downloaded: 7 months ago | 62 views
related: Pakistan: Margherita Peak, K7 West, Farol West, Slovenians climb K7 West, Prominent Routes Established in Coast Range, Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley: Pathan Brakk, K7 West, by M. McCormick, Americans Battle Night Terrors in Nepal

Evel Knievel

from Upskill Climbing
Keywords:
Evel Knievel, route, Good, traverse, moves, kneebar, crag, training, completely ruined my psyche, empty in two moves

Only a few days to go until Kalymnos 2011, so time to get some training in on something steep. Frey Yule's route Evel Knievel 29/8a at Coolum was a likely target. It starts up Evil Wears No Pants 30/8a+ with a burly, 70 degree overhung, 11 move boulder to a good kneebar before cutting a traverse directly left for several bodylengths and then a transition back to "up" climbing to finish up the last three or so bolts of the route Ground Control . I'd been on the route in March this year while conditions were

published: 8 months ago | downloaded: 8 months ago | 71 views
related: Andreas Bindhammer on La novena enmienda, Sean McColl on Dreamcatcher - 5.14d, Sean McColl on Dreamcatcher - 5.14d, Spanish Castle Magic, Solo trip day 1

Black Hole Sun, 3 pitch F7a+ in Twll Mawr

from V12 Outdoor - Climbing news
Keywords:
Twll Mawr, Ian, Andy Schofield, final deadline, Phil Dowthwaite, astonishing multi pitch route, forthcoming Llanberis Slate guide, Black Hole Sun, usual partner in crime, usual partner

Image from Google Just as the final deadline for the forthcoming Llanberis Slate guide arrives Ian Lloyd-Jones has struck again with another astonishing multi pitch route in Twll Mawr. Ian teamed up with his usual partner in crime, Sion McGuinness, plus Phil Dowthwaite and Andy Schofield, who had got the third ascent of Supermassive Black Hole a few [...]

published: 10 months ago | downloaded: 10 months ago | 64 views
related: Great views, Supermassive Black Hole – a 4 pitch F7a in Twll Mawr, Cold rock climbing, Evening Route

Cerro Torre Trip Report

from Arc'teryx Latest News
Keywords:
Torre, Maestri, Chris, climbing, ice, Cerro Torre, SE Ridge, ridge, ropes, headwall

Image from Google Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...

published: 11 months ago | downloaded: 10 months ago | 78 views
related: An Expedition to Patagonia, Mental Tricks, Pre-Great Climb interview, David Lama and Cerro Torre, Climbing competition brings appreciation of women climbers & serves me some humble pie.

Bold Youth Repeats Rare Lichen (E9 6c)

from DMM Climbing.com
Keywords:
E9 6c, A-level studies, Gribin Facet, Clogwyn y Tarw, Calum Muskett, Ogwen Valley, third ascent, time

Calum Muskett took time out from his A-level studies to make the third ascent of the very bold Rare Lichen (E9 6c) on Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet), Ogwen Valley.

published: about 1 year ago | downloaded: about 1 year ago | 35 views
related: Bold Youth Repeats Rare Lichen (E9 6c)

Bold Youth Repeats Rare Lichen (E9 6c)

from DMM Climbing.com
Keywords:
E9 6c, A-level studies, Gribin Facet, Clogwyn y Tarw, Calum Muskett, Ogwen Valley, third ascent, time

Calum Muskett took time out from his A-level studies to make the third ascent of the very bold Rare Lichen (E9 6c) on Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet), Ogwen Valley.

published: about 1 year ago | downloaded: about 1 year ago | 44 views

Greg Boswell Repeats The Hurting XI,11

from UKClimbing.com News
Keywords:
Hurting, t-Sneachda in the Cairngorms, Fiacall Buttress, Greg Boswell Repeats, Hurting XI,11, amazing season, ground-up ascent, Coire an t-Sneachda, t-Sneachda, Andy Turner

Young Scottish climber Greg Boswell has continued his amazing season with a ground-up ascent of The Hurting on the Fiacall Buttress at Coire an t-Sneachda in the Cairngorms. This is the third ascent of the route after Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner.

published: about 1 year ago | downloaded: about 1 year ago | 78 views
related: 12cm of new snow, Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents, Clear and sunny, Scottish Storm: The Tempest X,9

Enzo Oddo, Ambrosia (v11 super-highball)

from Bishop Bouldering Blog
Keywords:
Enzo Oddo, Ambrosia, Ambrosia yesterday, v11 super-highball, super-highball, Isaac Caldiero, upper part, third ascent, bad weather, start

Just heard that 15-year-old French prodigy Enzo Oddo repeated Ambrosia yesterday. He must have been wanting to get it done before the bad weather moved in as it was a very windy day up there! He had previously top-roped the upper part of the line and bouldered out the start, using the same direct version that Isaac Caldiero had used on the third ascent .

published: about 1 year ago | downloaded: about 1 year ago | 93 views
related: Ambrosia, 3rd Ascent Of Ambrosia By Isaac Caldiero