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Leading confidence - a worthy enemy

Recently I’ve been coaching a lot of sport climbing and spent lots of time trying to get climbers to recognise that leading confidence is placing a huge barrier in the way of improving almost any aspect of their climbing. What I’ve noticed is that climbers with leading confidence issues are desperate to avoid tackling it despite appearing quite highly motivated to make changes in most other areas of their climbing skills. Taking the first step in attacking leading confidence just feels so painful and


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 4 (Grande Grotta and Arhi)

Hey y'all! Let's get into the pics. Day five of climbing was in the mighty Grande Grotta and surrounds. This massive cave is the most famous sector on the island. Kurt's been experimenting with the GoPro capturing footage while climbing. I've often thought of headcam shots as "vomit footage" because the camera is swinging around wildly, but he's captured a few cool short grabs which I will certainly try to get into the trip video. This is a newish route in the Grande Grotta called Happy Girlfriend. It ...


What’s Wrong with this Picture?

Most climbers begin their career by toproping. If you're reading this blog, it's likely that you've toproped before. So I'd like to try something new with this blog. I'd like to ask each of you out there in the dark corridors of the i...


Climbing Shortlisted For 2020 Olympic Games

Image from Google A year after gaining recognition by the IOC, climbing is on the shortlist of events that could be added for the 2020 Olympic Games Climbing Shortlisted For 2020 Olympic Games from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Climbing One Step Closer To The Olympics? Chris Sharma Wins Innovative Deep Water Soloing Comp In Spain NE2C, USA Climbing Joining Forces Report From 2011 Ice Climbing World Cup In Cheongsong, South Korea Competitive Bouldering Coming To Central Park


Ripping the Flake for Arcteryx

Image from Google By Will Stanhope Two months ago I ripped off the flake on Parthian Shot, at Burbage South in the Peak District. Tim Emmett, trusted friend and well-known British climber, belayed me, and eventually piggy-backed me down the trail. Thanks to everyone who lent a hand that evening- I really do appreciate it. I had spent a few days on the gritstone previously and was eager to try a real 'hard grit' line. And Parthian didn't disappoint. Incredible movement on a wild prow, very physical and delicate at the same


"Ripping the Flake" for Arc'teryx

By Will Stanhope Two months ago I ripped off the flake on Parthian Shot, at Burbage South in the Peak District. Tim Emmett, trusted friend and well-known British climber, belayed me, and eventually piggy-backed me down the trail. Thanks to everyone who lent a hand that evening- I really do appreciate it. I had spent a few days on the gritstone previously and was eager to try a real 'hard grit' line. And Parthian didn't disappoint. Incredible movement on a wild prow, very physical and delicate at the same


How not to suck

Image from Google The discussion on "Ice climbing is NOT rock climbing" has generally been useful; I learned a few things for sure, and I appreciate Jeff (the videographer) and the guys in the video taking it all well. I've talked to Jeff and the climbers, they're good people. I write this blog pretty much like I talk to my friends over morning coffee, and went a little overboard in not editing my comments a little. My sincere apologies to the Fall team for that, and I look forward to getting out with them next year. Now


Ice Climbing is NOT rock climbing.

Image from Google Fall. from Jeffrey Butler on Vimeo . One of the biggest problems I see in ice climbing starts with people approaching ice climbing like they do rock climbing. That mindset is totally inappropriate, and leads to really avoidable accidents. A friend of mine recently sent me a link to a video shot Dracula, a one-pitch classic WI 4+ in New Hampshire. The leader gets pumped, struggles to get a screw in, and falls. Skip to 3: 28 to see it go bad, but the whole thing starts to go bad way before that point. I'm


The Return Of The Jedi

The Return Of The Jedi... A long time ago, in a galaxy far far away, I promised you a detailed description of my latest grit route “The Return of the Jedi”; a great little arête in Bank Quarry, climbed on boxing day last year. As seems to be the norm these days, I have been mega busy over her in Austria training and preparing for another English project in the near future, which if all goes well, should be a really exciting time... But before I start going into details of what is yet to come, I need


Mental Tricks

Image from Google Ice climbing is far more mental than rock climbing, and I mean that both in the sense of, "It's mental mate!" and that ice climbing puts more of a load on the brain. This does not mean ice climbers are smarter than rock climbers obviously... Here are a few brief tricks I've found useful for leading ice. Be a better climber on toprope than you'll ever have to be on lead. If you can hike any piece of vertical water ice on the planet on a toprope then you're not going to be losing it too much leading a ...