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Russians Siege Trango, Put Up New Route

Image from Google Last month, a four-man Russian team established a new route on the northwest face of Pakistan's Trango Tower (6251m). No Fear (VII 6B+ A3, 1120m) put up by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergey Nilov, Viktor Volodin and Alexander Yurkin, is the first largely independent route established in the Trango Group in more than a decade. Trango's northwest face is host to one other established route: Insumisioa (VI A3+ 6A), a 1995 creation of Basque climbers Antonio Aqueretta, Fermin Izco and Mikel Zabalza. The route's name


New Route on Trango Tower

Image from Google This is an excerpt of the full report on the BMC Website: The first largely-independent new route on Trango Tower in more than a decade has been completed by a four-man Russian team from the Moscow Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. Six climbers from the Federation arrived at base camp, with Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergey Nilov, team leader Viktor Volodin and Alexander Yurkin hoping to attempt a new line on the sunless and overhanging North Face. However, conditions meant...


New Route on Trango Tower

Image from Google A Russian expedition has climbed the first mostly independent new route on Trango Tower (aka Nameless Tower) in many years. The four-man team spent 10 days climbing a 1,000-meter line up the rarely visited northwest face of the 6,239-meter (20,469-foot) spire in the Baltoro region of Pakistan Taken from: Climbing Magazine.


New Route on Trango Tower

Image from Google The first largely-independent new route on Trango Tower in more than a decade has been completed by a four-man Russian team from the Moscow Mountaineering and Climbing Federation.


Hello from Pakistan!

Image from Google Hi Steph I just came across your website - wanted to ask you whether you have ever free-climbed in my country (the Trango tower is my fave), when I decided to click one of the photos before I emailed - and it turned out to be shipton spire, pakistan.jpg - so thanks for coming and a belated welcome! Hope you [...]


Hubers Redpoint Eternal Flame

Image from Google Over four days in mid-August, German brothers Alexander and Thomas Huber became first to redpoint Eternal Flame (VI 7c+ [5.13a], 650m) on the south face of Trango Tower (6239m) in the Trango Group of Pakistan's Karakoram range. Beyond qualifying for one of the world's hardest free climbs above 20,000 feet, the ascent puts to rest controversy that has surrounded the iconic line for two decades... Taken from: Alpinist Magazine .


Stephane Schaffter

Image from Google Stephane Schaffter discovered his passion for the mountains at the age of 14. Already accustomed to endurance sports riding a road bike, he began rock climbing in the Jura about the same time that he began his first career as a mechanical draftsman. He quickly gained experience in the classic routes of the Alps and the Dolomites, followed by the Andes and the Himalayas. Before he turned twenty, he and his school friends had already climbed a number of new lines. His growing passion found its place when