from The Adventure Blog
While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest. The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their
published: 4 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On September 30, 2011, Italian climbers Marco and Herve Barmasse, a father and son from Northern Italy, established a new route on the southeast face of Signalkuppe (4554m), a peak in the Monte Rosa massif. The 800-m route (ED) signifies the end of Herve Barmasse's "Exploring the Alps" project, in which he put up new routes on three of the range's most prominent peaks--the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and finally Monte Rosa. Signalkuppe is rarely visited. The first ascent of this peak was completed in 1906 by
published: 6 months ago
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downloaded: 6 months ago
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from Upskill Climbing
Day seven of climbing. Perhaps the highlight day so far? I don't know, you be the judge. We started with a group vote on where we wanted to go for the final four climbing days of the trip. Plans were made, guidebooks were consulted, and dates were made with dogs that had been left behind at various cliffs to date. KALYDNA If you were playing along at home you know we went to Kalydna on day two . You'll also know that Owen, Andy and Susy found a friend for life in the 30m Nickel which is a 7a+ pitch which
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Alan Arnette continues to check off mountains on his quest to climb the Seven Summits for Alzheimer's . Having already knocked off Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, Aconcagua in South America, Elbrus in Europe, Kilimanjaro in Africa, and of course Everest in Asia, Alan has now set his sights on Carstensz Pyrmid, the tallest mountain in Oceania. Carstensz stands 4884 meters (16,024 feet) in height and is seen as a bit more of a technical challenge than some of the other Seven Summits. Located in a remote region of
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar climbed a new route on K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. The duo completed the alpine-style ascent of Dreamers of Golden Caves (VI A2 M5, 1600m) in four days, between September 6 and 9. This likely marks the second route to reach the summit and the third ascent overall of K7 West. The peak's climbing history began in 1982, when a Japanese team attempted K7 West via the west ridge. They left behind bolts, pins, fixed-cable ladders and an unclimbed ...
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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from INCLINED
The American Alpine Club is sad to note the passing of an alpine great, Walter Bonatti. Bonatti died after a long battle with cancer Tuesday evening in Rome. He was eighty-one. Bonatti was known for his pure, clean, and fast style, often climbing solo and in winter. He has left a mark on world alpinism that will not be forgotten. He was an Honorary Member of The American Alpine Club and a 2009 winner of the Piolet D’or Lifetime Achievement Award (the first to receive that honor). In 2004 Bonatti received
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Yesterday I mentioned that news out of the Karakoram has been a bit slow so far this year, but that teams were arriving in Base Camps and that things would pick-up soon. Turns out that was a prophetic, if obvious, thing to say, as we have news today of a major success in the mountain range, as well as an early summit bid that was turned back. First, the British Mountaineering Council is reporting that four Russians have claimed the first ascent of the West Face of Latok III . The team, which includes ...
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On May 13 British mountaineers Jon Bracey and Matt Hellinker set out to do a route that had been the dream of their friend Jules Cartwright. Cartwright, an experienced mountaineer responsible for many first ascents, died in 2004 while guiding Piz Badille. Before his death Cartwright had already established one route, The Knowledge (Alaska Grade 6: ED4 5.7 A2++ AI6, 6000') on Hunter and had envisioned the line that Bracey and Hellinker climbed and then named in his honor; the Cartwright Connection (Alaskan
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
While I was away in South America, the spring climbs pretty much wrapped up in the Himalaya. Now, the monsoon looms, and with its arrival, comes plenty of rain and wind, which will shut off the big peaks in Nepal and Tibet until the fall. And while the final weather window on Everest didn't last as long as was hoped, and many climbers had their dreams dashed, there were a few notable climbs that I wanted to highlight, even though it has been some time since they were completed. For starters, major ...
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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124 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
On May 14, American guide Michael Horst climbed Everest (8848m) and Lhotse (8516m) in under 21 hours. We believe this establishes him as the first to climb two 8,000-meter peaks in a single day. Horst, a guide for Alpine Ascents International, signed on for climbing both peaks with client Rob Hart and two Sherpas as part of AAI's Everest Lhotse combination program. Once the team summitted Everest at 9:30 a.m., they returned to Camp IV at the South Col (7906 meters). Following an afternoon rest, Horst ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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