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Trying to find Lochnagar

Headed up to try to see Lochnagar today but by the time we got to the coll, the snow storm had started. Plenty of fresh snow and Southerly winds above 600m. Underfoot conditions are pretty poor, even on skis. 10 points to the pair who managed to walk all the way to the top of the land rover track before giving up!


Cooler calm and sunny

A few routes were being climbed in Lochain today, underfoot conditions on the approach slopes are becoming quite firm. Some old avalanche debris above the Lochains


It's on!

Image from Google So, things are finally starting to look 'interesting' on the hill. A small window of opportunity appeared on the weather forecasts a couple of days ago, a 36 hour window to be precise. There are actually two types of weather information that we assess to find a decent summit window: the general precipitation (i.e snow and temperature) and, more importantly, the position of the jet stream. The summit of Everest lies fully in the planet's jet stream, winds so strong (118+mph), that climbers would literally