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Meeting the Queen

On Fat Boy Slim VI, 6, Ben Nevis the other day How do I winter climb again? After doing Anubis a couple of years ago I took a bit of a break from winter climbing. That route was a really nice piece of climbing and was very satisfying to climb. It was hard to find something good enough to follow it. I was also really missing bouldering and felt I hard to get some strength base together for climbing the Longhope. Last season I tried a couple of new routes that were maybe too hard, and then winter was over


Dutch in Kyrgyzstan

Image from Google The rock was limestone and mostly not so good quality, but the mountains were steep and beautiful.-Bas van der Smeede From July 9 - August 14, Dutch climbers Bas van der Smeede, Saskia Groen, Bas Visscher and Vincent van Beek pioneered six previously unnamed and unclimbed peaks in an expedition to Kyrgyzstan's Pamir-Alai Mountains. Just north of the Chinese border, the team discovered steep 4,000 - 5,000 meter peaks in the Oibala range. "As far as we could find," said Smeede, "the area has never been ...


Cwm Glas Ridge

Image from Google I have had quite a few emails in the last week & noticed a few questions on UKC regarding any snow which may be left in the higher gullies. So today I decided to head down the A55 and have a wee look. The forecast for the day according to MWIS, MetOffice, Snowforecast.com & MetCheck ALL stated very clearly that today would be a day with fantastic visibility, 90% chance of cloud free summits, sunny & clear skies. That sounded too good to miss, so off I went heading up Cwm Glas Ridge which leads right to the


Kurt Albert Dies at Age 56

Image from Google K urt Albert, climbing legend and pioneer, died on Tuesday, September 28, 2010 at 8:45 p.m. in Erlangen, Germany from serious injuries he sustained after falling 60 feet on the via ferrata Hohenglucksteig outside of Hersbruck, Germany on Sunday. He was 56. Albert was best known for coining the term "redpoint." The name comes from his practice of free climbing aid routes and then marking the start of the route with a red dot. He also completed hundreds of first ascents, with routes bearing his name on all


Illimani’s South Face, Then Four More

Image from Google In late July, Florian Hill of Austria and Robert Rauch of Germany climbed an impressive new route on the Bolivian centerpiece Illimani (6438m), the highest peak in the Cordillera Real, and added to the challenge by immediately traversing over four more peaks. Deliver Me (VI WI6 M6+, 1700m) climbs the south face of Illimani, and [...]


Illimani's South Face, Then Four More

Image from Google In late July, Florian Hill of Austria and Robert Rauch of Germany climbed an impressive new route on the Bolivian centerpiece Illimani (6438m), the highest peak in the Cordillera Real, and added to the challenge by immediately traversing over four more peaks. Deliver Me (VI WI6 M6+, 1700m) climbs the south face of Illimani, and the majority of its 5,600' was climbed in a 21-hour push. Scoping out their line from base camp, Hill and Rauch quickly discovered that the bulk of the route was hidden and would


Teva Mountain Games Final Results

Keywords:
mens, VI, UT, NZ, Women, Rotorua, Women 1, NC, WA, Boulder

Image from Google Last weekend the 9th Annual Teva Mountain Games were held in Vail Colorado, with more than 2200 outdoor athletes taking part in the event. Activities included trail running, mountain biking, road cycling, kayaking, rock climbing, and much more. There were a few surprises at the event, such as 16-year old Noa Ginella taking home the top honors in the Stand Up Paddling event, beating competitors much older than himself. The games also marked the return of the Ultimate Mountain Challenge , with Vail residents


Erik Massih

Image from Google I started climbing in '93 after seeing a newspaper ad for climbing shoes on sale and took a day off from school to travel to Stockholm to buy a pair. From there on I was pretty much addicted and past the point of no return when I traveled to Australia and Thailand 93/94 for half a year and seeing and feeling the freedom and life that's climbing. In summer '95 I travelled to Yosemite got my first taste of big walling when climbing The Nose on El Cap etc. From there on I was totally hooked on walls. Later


Central Icefall: A Personal Account

A personal account from Mark 'Baggy' Richards of his ascent of Central Icefall Direct (VI) on Craig y Rhaeadr in the Llanberis Pass.


Glen Coe - Ice Ice Ice!!!

On the first ascent of Jane’s weep, Glen Coe Last week with Donald I’d spied some desperate looking but amazing steep ice smears on the Lady Jane wall on Aonach Dubh in Glen Coe. Exactly how ice climbers dream of thin ice face routes could be - ice smears a few mms thick and occasional blobs running boldly up a wall, eventually gaining ever-thickening ice to finish on an overhanging pillar. And so today we had a bit of a desert island ice route day. First off Blair romped up a steep crack and ice ...