from The Alpinist - newswire
Climbers established three new ice routes on Tangle Ridge near the Columbia Icefield in Alberta this spring after waiting as many as 10 winters for the falls to form. Visible from the famed Icefields Parkway, the potential lines--each about 600 meters in height and at least 10 pitches long--had been under the careful watch of local climbers. When conditions finally came in thick last month, they introduced Undertow (WI6), Can't Touch This (WI5+ M6) and Boobquake (WI4+ M5) to the gamut of significant climbs
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
I started climbing in '93 after seeing a newspaper ad for climbing shoes on sale and took a day off from school to travel to Stockholm to buy a pair. From there on I was pretty much addicted and past the point of no return when I traveled to Australia and Thailand 93/94 for half a year and seeing and feeling the freedom and life that's climbing. In summer '95 I travelled to Yosemite got my first taste of big walling when climbing The Nose on El Cap etc. From there on I was totally hooked on walls. Later
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from The Alpinist - newswire
News Flash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more information becomes available.--Ed. Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb reached the summit of Takargo (aka Dragkar-Go, 6771m) on March 12, making the first ascent of this major peak just east of Chobutse in Nepal's Rolwaling Himal. In early March, the team established base camp on the Tradkarding Glacier below ...
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Keywords:
February,
grade,
climb,
VIII,8,
300m,
pitches,
Skrikjofossen,
Scotland,
Valle,
7 pitches
From Norway and Scotland to Italy and Spain, ice-climbing conditions have been prime this month. Numerous hard winter lines and notable repeats have been climbed in February, and the momentum for new routes seems only to be growing. After establishing Spray On, the controversial route documented in the February 1, 2010 NewsWire , Will Gadd headed to Norway with Andreas Spak. Spending February 9-15 in Eidfjord in central Norway, the two, along with photographer Christian Pondella, climbed three big ...
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from The Alpinist - newswire
In Norway, seven adjacent waterfalls famously drop into Geirangerfjord, a fjord so impressive that it has been included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Seven Sisters (De syv sostre as they're called in Norwegian), stream over the fjord's 400-meter walls and are a popular attraction in summer months. In winter, The Seven Sisters flow as usual, the sea-level temperatures warm enough that the falls infrequently solidify. But this year, an extreme and sustained arctic snap convinced four Norwegians to
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Two of the world's hardest ice climbs were established in Austria's Valle di Gastein this January. On the 4th, Austrians Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber made the first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall (WI7, 800m) in the Gasteinertal; three days later, Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of Centercourt (WI7+, 300m) in the nearby Anlauftal. The grade of Centercourt not only suggests that the climb is definitively Austria's hardest--it also puts it in a
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from The Alpinist - newswire
After monitoring ice and snow on a big objective in Austria's Zillertal Alps for more than a year, Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner found ideal conditions last week. The result was Moonwalk (WI6 M7, 1000m), the longest icefall climbed to date in Austria according to Leichtfried. Early on the morning of December 3, Leichtfried and Purner skied to the base of the north-facing climb, located near the ridge that runs from Hohe Warte (2943m) to Sagwand (3227m). They climbed 13 pitches of varied ...
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
By Dougald MacDonald / The Mountain World / www.climbing.com Jay Smith and Jack Tackle, longtime veterans of Alaskan climbing, enjoyed a remarkable two and a half weeks in the Alaska Range in May, climbing four new routes. Tackle, who has done 28 climbing trips to the 49th state, called it "maybe my best trip ever to Alaska since I started going in 1976." On May 9, the two men flew to a small glacial basin at 8,300 feet, south of Mt. Huntington, that Tackle called his “Private Idaho,” and where pilot
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from Petzl Crew
From The Alpine Briefs - issue 2 Detroit auto executives, after making crappy gas-guzzlers that break down on the way to the crags, flew to Washington in private jets to beg for bailout money. A stampeding herd of mouthbreathers kicked off the holiday season of giving by trampling to death a Wal-Mart employee. Corrupt Illinois governor Rod Blagojevich may be shacking up in jail with Illinois’ previous corrupt governor. For Ponzi-scheme-scum and ex-Nasdaq chairman Bernard Madoff, apparently being a ...
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
I have been rock climbing, ice climbing and alpine climbing for over a dozen years. Below is a brief list of what I consider to be some of my more memorable adventures. When not climbing, I am married with cats and teach college physics in Calgary. 2007 FA of the West Face (V 5.10+) of Mt. Alberta, Canadian Rockies, with Eamonn Walsh. 2006 Hispar glacier, Karakorum, Pakistan – attempts on the south face of the unclimbed Kunyang Chhish East (ca. 7400 m), and first ascent of “Ali Chhish” (6164 m), with
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