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Winter Climb Update: Waiting For A Weather Window On Denali

Image from Google There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions. On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization


Gear Box: CamelBak Charge LR Hydration Pack

Image from Google For active, outdoor enthusiasts, the hydration pack just might be the greatest invention ever. The ability to conveniently carry our water with us no matter where we go or what activity we're doing, has made our ability to play and work outside much easier. Over the years, the hydration pack has evolved to the point where they are now lighter, easier to use, and more ergonomically designed to fit our bodies. They've even become specialized to the point that there are now hydration packs built for specific


Antarctica 2011: Delays Continue

Image from Google We may have edged a bit closer to the start of the 2011 Antarctic season, but it seems it hasn't kicked off quite yet. According to an update on the Crossing The Ice expedition page, James Castrission and Justin Jones received late word from ALE that they wouldn't be flying today, but could be setting out at last tomorrow. According to the post, bad weather at Union Glacier is still making things dicey, although ALE is planning a flight today to deliver their own personnel and gear to the camp. The wait


Llanberis slate guide arrives – at last!

Image from Google Yes folks, the wait is finally over. The advance batch of the Llanberis Slate guide arrived today at V12. “It so great to finally see this guide in the flesh. We’ve worked so hard and for so long to make it happen, in fact it feels strange to be holding it in my hands after all [...]


Bivouac: French for "Mistake" - Kyrgyzstan

Image from Google Between July 15 and August 3, an Anglo-Danish team of climbers explored the eastern part of the Djangart region of Kyrgyzstan. Inspired by a Mike Royer's 2010 trip report in the American Alpine Journal on the western part of the Djangart, the team was excited to explore a region that offered the opportunity to make first ascents of unclimbed mountains. The eastern Djangart has seen few climbing expeditions in recent years, and its remote location and abundance of untouched territory lent itself to the kind


Waiting Out The Weather On Denali

Image from Google As I've mentioned before, Alan Arnette is currently climbing Denali as the fourth leg of his Seven Summits for Alzheimer's project. Having already knocked off Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, Aconcagua in South America, and Everest in Asia, he has been hoping to finish Denali, the highest peak in North America as well. Unfortunately, the weather has not been cooperating, and his window is starting to run short, as he awaits an opportunity to add one more summit to his already impressive resume. According to his


6/20 Wagner and 6/22 Vernovage

Image from Google The 6/20 Wagner and 6/22 Vernovage teams are together at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier. They are waiting for the lower glacier to freeze up so they can quickly move to base camp. When the glacier is frozen, it makes for much nicer travel and it is worth the wait! Hopefully it will freeze up well tonight so they move to base camp and fly out from there to Talkeetna tomorrow. They report that they are all doing very well.


Upskill Climbing Gear goes live!

Image from Google If you're from the States you'll have a good laugh at this. We all know this product. Petzl Spirit quickdraw. An old sport climbing favourite. Price today in USA: $20.36 Price today in major Australian gear store: $54.95 (!) If you're from the USA or Europe you might be thinking "WTF?" but yes, it's true. Australians pay roughly double what you guys spend for our climbing gear. Often this simply means that people who know what they want just order from the States. This unfortunately means not supporting


Latest Addition to the AMS Family

Image from Google Congratulations to AMS guides Joey McBrayer and Melis Coady on the birth of their beautiful daughter, Judy Greene. She reluctantly arrived two weeks late but it was worth the wait. She weighs in at 9 pounds and 20.5 inches long. According to mom, "She has a strong cry and the world's cutest yawn." All are doing well and we look forward to meeting her.


Slight freeze on the tops

It was slightly colder overnight than it had been recently. Some rime ice had formed on grass and moss at higher levels (at about 1200 m in this picture). The snow cover at this level had an icy crust to it from the colder conditions. There are a number of cracks about which have been created by cornices creeping and slumping the the mild conditions we have been experiencing over the past week. Although some sections of cornice have already dropped off, there are plenty more waiting for when the thaw ...