from The Adventure Blog
There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions. On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization
published: 4 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest. The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their
published: 4 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On October 20 (2011) Jon Otto, Liu Yong (Daliu), Su Rongqin (Asu), and Tim Boelter made the first successful ascent of Mt. Yangmolong (6060m) in western Sichuan province of China. The conditions were better than hoped for and the was route fun and sustained. This peak is part of the Shaluli Shan Range and is on the border with eastern Tibet. This entire region is known as Kham and is ethnically Tibetan. Most of Yangmolong's north side is covered in unstable hanging glacier seracs high up on its face. The
published: 6 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Earlier in the week I posted an update on the 2011 fall Himalaya season in which I noted that many teams were now in their respective base camps, resting, and keeping an eye on the weather. Most had completed their acclimatization rotations, and were now enjoying some down time before they started their first summit attempts. Fast forward a few days, and plans are now in place to make those bids, with climbers starting to head back up their mountains as early as today. It looks like Monday or Tuesday will
published: 8 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakoram's Saser Kangri II (7518m), the world's second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunzang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering. The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m) ascends the southwest face. The Eastern Karakoram was closed to climbing up until April 2010 due to border ...
published: 8 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Earlier this week we received word that a major summit push was underway on K2, as a group of climbers moved up the mountain along the Cesen Route to take advantage of good weather. That group consisted of climbers such asAlex Txikon, Fabrizio Zangrilli, Kinga Baranowska, Louis Stitzinger, Christian Stangl, andGerfried Göschl, amongst others. While there hasn't been a lot of updates from the climb just yet, Gerfried's home team has posted on their progress with the news this morning that the group has ...
published: 9 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
After weeks of preparations, acclimatization, and patiently waiting, it appears to be go time on K2, where several teams are preparing to head up today and begin a summit push. If they are successful, it'll be the first time that anyone has stood on top of that mountain since the tragic 2008 season, when 11 people perished on August 1st, which just so happens to also be today's date. Fabrizio Zangrili has finally updated his blog for the first time in a month, and he notes that his team will begin moving
published: 9 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Earlier in the week we had reports of several successful summits on Broad Peak, despite the weather there not being the most advantageous for climbing. A few days later we also get word of tragedy on that mountain, as one of the climbers fell to his death while descending. Climber Rob Springer , who is part of the Field Touring Alpine squad, posted news of the accident on his blog today. Rob is on BP to acclimatize before jumping over to K2, which is his ultimate goal this summer in the Karakoram. He ...
published: 10 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Over the weekend, several climbers on Broad Peak took advantage of a brief break in the weather to head up to the summit, while others used the time to further acclimatize. There was also sad news from Gasherbrum II, where a climber fell to her death on the descent. As I mentioned last week , the weather reports on BP haven't been good for some time, but there were predictions of a very brief window opening over the weekend. As a result, several climbers moved up to high camps with the intention of taking
published: 10 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Alan Arnette's plans for summiting Denali came to an end over the weekend thanks to a suborn and persistent weather system that would not allow access to the top of the mountain. He and his team had been at High Camp, located at 17,500 ft (5334 meters) for seven days waiting for a weather window to open, but high winds and heavy snows continued to prevent them from mounting any kind of serious summit bids. As a result, they simply ran out of time, so Alan, along with the rest of his Mountain Trip team, are
published: 10 months ago
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