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April and May Expeditions on Denali and Foraker

Image from Google Interested in a Alaskan wilderness expedition? Consider an early season climb on Denali's West Buttress, West Rib Routes or on Mount Foraker. Expeditions in late April and early May offer increased challenge because of the colder temperatures yet in exchange, you have an increase opportunity for solitude. AMS has been offering West Buttress climbs in April since 2008 and we've always had the summit to ourselves. We are offering the following early season climbs on the West Buttress: April 27, April 29 and


New Route on Foraker for Artun, Haley

Image from Google Bjorn-Eivind Artun and I have just come out from a 37-day trip to Denali and Mt. Foraker in Alaska, which was partially funded by a Mugs Stump Award and the Norwegian Alpine Club (NTK). Here is a report of what we did. We flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier on May 13 and immediately started up Denali's West Buttress route to acclimatize. We soon established a basecamp at the 14,200' camp on the West Buttress. On May 21, we attempted to climb and ski the Orient Express route but turned around and skied from ...


High camp

Image from Google I talked to Nate Opp briefly earlier today. They are doing well. Nate is a man of few words. Mike Janes and the rest of his crew headed up to High Camp this morning. I talked to him a bit this evening. They arrived and were able to move into some half built walls up there. They were just beefing them up now and melting some snow for water. They are planning on taking a rest day tomorrow. Sounded like a really nice day up there. Nate's, Rodrigo's and Todd's teams are all at 14K now. Peter Anderson, Nick ...


Moonlight Skiing

It is a Wolf Moon , how do locals celebrate? Some stay up late and howl, Denali Nordic Ski club is celebrating by skiing 25K tonight. They are practicing for the Oosik Ski Race, which is scheduled for March 20, here in (near) Talkeetna, it's 25 50K. We're howling about enrollments here, the Wilderness First Responder 70-hour Course is nearly full! If you have been procrastinating, get that registration form to us ASAP! We usually have a waiting list, and occasionally some last-minute cancellations. There


Spring Break Special

Oh, what a beautiful day! It's 3 degrees sunny! We have a NEW PROGRAM for you beginners to consider ~ we're calling it our Spring Break Special . It's an 8 day Mountaineering Course, held on the Matanuska Glacier, for just $2000 per person, including food, fuel, group gear and transportation from Talkeetna. The dates are March 13-20, 2010 . We have room for 2 more people. Contact our office for details. You could either meet us at the Glacier or meet us in Talkeetna. Otherwise, it will be very similar to


Mid January

After a sunny weekend, we got a great dump of snow this morning! We're getting a beautiful sunset, but the Alaska Range is still obscured by clouds. It seems warm for us at this time of year, with 20 degrees as the constant temperature. The Italian soloist made it up to Base Camp on Saturday, rumor has it he's thinking twice about his plan to dig snow caves for the whole expedition and is wishing he brought a tent. Never underestimate this mountain! (or overestimate yourself) In other climbing news, the


Snow Falling In Talkeetna

We have low visibility and about 3" of fresh snow on the ground here in Talkeetna. Temps are very pleasant at 20 degrees above zero. Groomers have been keeping the local cross-country ski trails in great shape. A couple of people who are signed up for a Mountaineering Course made a road trip from Fairbanks to visit and check out the AMS facilities. Thanks for stopping by Dusty Nick! It seems quiet in town, but the climbing community has some activity with the first climbers of the year. Japanese ...


Glorious Morning

We're wrapping up 2010 in style! A blue moon for New Year's Eve brings night time skiing and bonfires. We have a stretch of clear weather to enjoy, with moderate temps (it's about 8 degrees above right now). Check out this sunrise from just 10 minutes ago! We'll be closed for the 4-day weekend, and back in the office on Monday. Here is the availability update: 2010 AMS Availability Report: Denali, West Buttress , 2010 Availability: April 27-May 17: 2 spaces May 3- 23: FULL May 10-30: FULL (waitlist) May


Happy Holidays!

Sending you all warm wishes! May the lengthening days be Merry Bright! Winter Solstice is behind us, hooray! It's time to curl up with a cup of hot cocoa... 2010 AMS Availability Report: Denali, West Buttress , 2010 Availability: April 27-May 17: 3 spaces May 3- 23: FULL May 10-30: FULL (waitlist) May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist) May 24-June 13: FULL (waitlist) May 31-June 20: FULL (waitlist) June 7-June 27: FULL (waitlist) June 14-July 4: FULL (waitlist) June 21-July 11: FULL (waitlist) Denali , West Rib ,


Denali 2010 Update

Just a few small changes to add this week: 2010 AMS Availability Report: Denali, West Buttress , 2010 Availability: April 27-May 17: 3 spaces May 3- 23: FULL May 10-30: FULL (waitlist) May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist) May 24-June 13: FULL (waitlist) May 31-June 20: FULL (waitlist) June 7-June 27: FULL (wiatlist) June 14-July 4: FULL (waitlist) June 21-July 11: FULL (waitlist) Denali , West Rib , 2010 Availability: May 29-June 18: 3 spaces. Contact AMS for details! Custom Dates Available Denali , Upper West