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Saser Kangri II first ascent by Richey, Swenson and Wilkinson

In summer 2011 American alpinists Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson summited the second highest unclimbed mountain in the world, Saser Kangri II (7518m). Trip report and questions with Steve Swenson.


Saser Kangri II In Alpine Style

Image from Google On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakoram's Saser Kangri II (7518m), the world's second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunzang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering. The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m) ascends the southwest face. The Eastern Karakoram was closed to climbing up until April 2010 due to border ...


One Mountain Thousand Summits – Freddie Wilkinson

Image from Google The Mountain Library rating: ★★★★ Published: 2010 Reading style: medium Images: yes (8 pages, bw) Lasting memory: One Mountain Thousand Summits by Freddie Wilkinson is widely respected as ‘the climber’s’ account of the 2008 tragedy on K2 where eleven people perished in the worst single accident in the history of climbing on that mountain. Wilkinson, a [...]


Past President Sends New Mixed Line in NH

Past AAC president Mark Richey and member Freddie Wilkinson completed the first integral ascent of a new mixed line on Cannon Cliff, Franconia, New Hampshire. The pair rated the, as yet unnamed, four and half pitch route M6+ Spicy. Wilkinson had attempted the line with local AMGA guide Bayard Russel but were shut down at [...]


New Route Aside, Tooth Traverse Thwarts Climbers Again

On May 17, Renan Ozturk, Zack Smith and Freddie Wilkinson arrived in Alaska's Ruth Gorge with ambitions to traverse the full five-mile ridgeline of the Mooses Tooth massif, from Espresso Gap to Ruth Gap. Though they arrived to find ideal conditions--hard freezes every night and relatively warm weather during the day--their luck did not last, and warm conditions forced them to cut the trip short. After trekking across Ruth Glacier, Ozturk, Smith and Wilkinson established base camp below the southwest face