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Euphoria, Set Back and a Quantum of Solace

October 2011 Expedition to Kyzyl Asker, Himalaya, September 2011 After my last two previous failed expedition attempts with Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger to the "Red Soldier", the 5842 meter high Mount Kyzyl Asker , in late fall of 2010, I knew I'd go back to try again. I traveled for the second time to the remote mountain range Kookshal Too, of Thien Shan, in Kyrgyzstan. Our goal: to ascend the South-East face of Mount Kyzyl Asker. Tried by many alpinists, without a successful ascent so far. I would


Everest Fall 2011: Acclimatizing In The Himalaya

Keywords:
rotation, teams, ft, ABC, climb, BC, Camp 1, weather, end, day

Image from Google As I mentioned earlier in the week , a number of autumn expeditions are underway in the Himalaya, where small teams have collected on a few mountains, where they are already busy setting up camps, learning important skills, and most of all – acclimatizing for the ascents to come. On Manaslu, the Altitude Junkies have now set-up shop and have their all important "Internet dome" working properly. This gives the team members an opportunity to blog about their experience, stay in contact with friends and ...


Saser Kangri II In Alpine Style

Image from Google On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakoram's Saser Kangri II (7518m), the world's second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunzang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering. The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m) ascends the southwest face. The Eastern Karakoram was closed to climbing up until April 2010 due to border ...


Saser Kangri II—The Descent

Image from Google AAC President Steve Swenson was evacuated from Advanced Base Camp after difficulty breathing. He has recovered quickly and completely and sent us a number of reports on his, Mark Richeys, and Freddie Wilkinsons successful ascent of Saser Kangri II. Weve reposted parts of these reports here. After I had a sleepless night of hacking and [...]


Saser Kangri II Day 4—The Summit

Image from Google AAC President Steve Swenson was evacuated from Advanced Base Camp after difficulty breathing. He has recovered quickly and completely and sent us a number of reports on his, Mark Richeys, and Freddie Wilkinsons successful ascent of Saser Kangri II. Weve reposted parts of these reports here. August 24.  We only had four pitches of technical [...]


Saser Kangri II Day 3

Image from Google AAC President Steve Swenson was evacuated from Advanced Base Camp after difficulty breathing. He has recovered quickly and completely and sent us a number of reports on his, Mark Richeys, and Freddie Wilkinsons successful ascent of Saser Kangri II. Weve reposted parts of these reports here. On the morning of day 3 we were already [...]


Saser Kangri II Day 1

Image from Google AAC President Steve Swenson was evacuated from Advanced Base Camp after difficulty breathing. He has recovered quickly and completely and sent us a number of reports on his, Mark Richeys, and Freddie Wilkinsons successful ascent of Saser Kangri II. Weve reposted parts of these reports here. I was uncertain still about my health, but on [...]


Giri-Giri Boys Claim Second Ascent of Daddomain

At the 2011 Piolets d'Or, members of the jury asked Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand if they would recommend their route The Rose of No Man's Land , on Mt. Edgar's east face (6618m), to other climbers. Their answer was. "No." They explained that the only approach to the face is a terrain trap. This face is where, in 2009 , Johnny Copp, Micah Dash and Wade Johnson were killed in an avalanche. But Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura, Ryo Masumoto and Takaaki Nagato felt that more routes on Edgar's east face


Himalaya 2011: Alan Summits Everest, North Side Teams On Top Too!

Image from Google As predicted last week, the weather window on Everest this past weekend was a good one, an many climbers went up to the summit. There are some indications that as many as 100 people stood on top on Friday and a similar number may have gone up on Saturday as well. One of the first to top out on Saturday was Alan Arnette , whose expedition we've been following closely for the entire season. As regular readers of this blog know, Alan has been climbing Everest as the third leg of his 7 Summits for Alzheimer's


Himalaya 2011: More Summits On Everest And Kangchanjunga

As expected, a second wave of summits has begun on the South Side of Everest, where teams have gone up this morning despite higher winds. The trend is expected to continue into the weekend, as other teams are currently poised to make their bids as the winds die down later in the day. The Himex team put eight of their clients, along with three guides and ten Sherpas, on the summit this today, after setting out at about 12:30 AM local time. Apparently, the team moved efficiently and with good speed, and over