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2011-08-31 10:19:00

The difference between clean and dirty on this wall is immense, and should have been expected on an alpine wall of this exposure, parts of which rarely get wet. I spent a long time cleaning the 4th pitch and checking out the moves, thankfully to find that it was not so bad. Sure it is hard, sure it is a little scary, and there are parts where one must be very cautios with large chunks of rock. However, there are holds – positive pieces to grab with hands and feet, success will be more dependent on ...


INTERVIEW: Nina Caprez - Silbergeier - Alpine 8b/+

Nina Caprez has become the first woman to climb the iconic route of Silbergeier in the Rätikon, Switzerland. In this interview we find out more about Nina and about the 6 pitch 8b/+ alpine wall of Silbergeier .


"Unclimbed": Seven Years Later

Image from Google I've just been editing a story for the American Alpine Journal about the first ascent of the north face of Chang Himal in Nepal, by British climber Andy Houseman. Andy said his climb, with fellow Brit Nick Bullock, was inspired in part by an article called "Unclimbed," published in 2003 in Alpinist 4 , in which various writers identified nine great unfulfilled challenges in the alpine world. Which, in turn, inspired me to dig up the article and see how climbers have done over the last six and a half years.