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Long Hope night at RGS in London Feb 8th

Paul Diffley captures the action from an airy filming position on the Longhope route. Photo: Lukasz Warzecha On February 8th, myself, Andy Turner and filmmaker Paul Diffley will be speaking at the Royal Geographical Society in London about the Longhope route. Mountain Equipment and Gore-Tex have helped us arrange an evening of entertainment at the RGS to share with you what was pretty memorable adventure for us, both in terms of the climbers involved in attempting to climb this cliff over 40 years, and in


Climbing and the Olympics: Will Climbing Lose its Soul?

Image from Google About a month ago, before I went on unplanned hiatus from writing this blog, I read a very interesting commentary at Kairn.com on the Olympics and climbing. There has been a consistent push in recent years for the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics, perhaps in part because the potential resulting higher profile could bring bigger sponsors on board for events such as the World Cup. Here are some thoughts translated from the French, originally authored by Jean Pierre Banville: " Elleva y ...


Record snowfalls in the Alps

Image from Google Well we had a dry autumn, but the last two weeks has more than made up for that with 3.25m of snowfall at the Grands Montets and counting  Early season powder conditions understandably have been excellent, though not with Continue reading


Dry Tooling At The Foundry, Sheffield

Image from Google I’ve done plenty of seasons ice climbing over the last 13 years,  I’ve done gully’s and ridges in Scotland and the Lakes, climbed Water Ice in Norway and in the Alps, but so far I’ve never done any of serious mixed climbing, sure I’ve torqued an icy crack on a buttress when the ice has [...] Dry Tooling At The Foundry, Sheffield is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you might also like: FigFour Training


The Grandes Jorasses

The most renowned north face of the Alps is the Grandes Jorasses. The route is exciting: climbing Desmaison with one bivouac at the start and one at mid height. Since early fall, my sights were set on its summit. Jonathan Griffith, a photographer and friend, suggested we try the Grandes Jorasses with Andy Houseman, an English climber, and use the opportunity to get some interesting pictures of the route. Good idea! Sadly, our start was poor. Andy arrived from England and I was coming from Nice; no time to


GRANDES JORASSES Le Linceul

The most renowned north face of the Alps is the Grandes Jorasses. The route is exciting: climbing Desmaison with one bivouac at the start and one at mid height. Since early fall, my sights were set on its summit. Jonathan Griffith, a photographer and friend, suggested we try the Grandes Jorasses with Andy Houseman, an English climber, and use the opportunity to get some interesting pictures of the route. Good idea! Sadly, our start was poor. Andy arrived from England and I was coming from Nice; no time to


Father-Son Team Establish New Route on Monte Rosa Massif

Image from Google On September 30, 2011, Italian climbers Marco and Herve Barmasse, a father and son from Northern Italy, established a new route on the southeast face of Signalkuppe (4554m), a peak in the Monte Rosa massif. The 800-m route (ED) signifies the end of Herve Barmasse's "Exploring the Alps" project, in which he put up new routes on three of the range's most prominent peaks--the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and finally Monte Rosa. Signalkuppe is rarely visited. The first ascent of this peak was completed in 1906 by


The Rab Infinity Down Jacket

Mr. Rab Carrington himself, at a crag in Osp, Slovenia photo couresty of MonikaThe "RAB" stands for Rab Carrington. For guys like me of a similar generation Rab Carrington was one of the hard Brits running around the Alps and later th...


Five Kilometers of Climbing in Greenland

Image from Google A Swiss-Bavarian group of climbers established over 5000 meters of climbing in ten new routes in Southern Greenland this August on the island of Quvnerit. The group consisted of Caroline Morel, Andres Lietha, Michi Wyser, Tom Holzhauser, Michi Tresch and Toni Lamprecht. Southern Greenland offers the potential for many more first ascents; Lamprecht compared the rock quality with that of the Alps. Quvnerit Island is located at the very southern tip of Greenland and has recently seen a lot of attention from


Friends, places, actions... and smiles. Always.

Posted By Liv Sansoz the 2011-10-19 I haven't written since a very long time on my blog. Not that nothing happened in my life. But nothing super exciting. Hum... I should not say that. All depends on what someone put behind the word "exciting". Climbing hard routes ? Then for sure I did nothing "exciting" since I was injured. Doing what I love ? Then I did a lot of "exciting" things... even injured ;) I realized the fact I was injured and I can not climb the way I would like to was not a reason for not ...