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Le Blond, la Brute, et le Manouche - Video

France, Italy, France, Italy, Greece, Italy, France, Austria, France, Italy, Austria, England, Austria, Itally, Switzerland, France, Spain, Mexico, France - My last two months... This time of year is always hectic, it seems like the majority of my work and non climbing commitments all come at the same time, which is a good thing as it leaves a lot of the year free, but can sometimes be frustrating when climbing has to be put on the back burner, and you feel yourself growing fat from all the eating out and


Adam Campbell Runs the Courmayer Champex Chamonix Race

***This race report was written under intense jet lag, after way too many hours of travel and intense post race fatigue & sleep deprivation!. "Remember to smile out there!" This message, posted to my Facebook wall by Peter Watson, was my mantra for almost 10.5 hours last Friday. It was good advice that dramatically changed my perception of a rather uncomfortable experience. I was running the Courmayer-Champex-Chamonix (CCC) race at the Ultra Trail de Mont Blanc (UTMB) race festival. Starting in Italy, this


2011-08-21 13:51:00

Since Canada I have been in real adventure mode; exploring, questing, learning, suffering, progressing and resting, usually in the middle of the mountains, with no phone or internet.  The reason - Joy Division, a 20 pitch route on the Qualido wall, Val Di Mello.  The result – sore muscles, sorer skin, and a fast track course in Big wall bumbling. A Brief History of the route... Climbing on Qualido dates back to 1978, and as expected, a whole host of mixed (aid and free) routes appeared over the next


Newfoundland Expedition Reports

Image from Google And we begin... Wow!!! One month since my last post! So what have I been up to? Keep reading and find out... Blow Me Down is 1,300 feet of granite rising directly out of the Atlantic. Situated in Devils Bay, a wet and windy place indeed on the South coast of Newfoundland, Blow Me Down is several hours from the nearest road and civilisation, accessible only by boat. Like my Chad Expedition from 2010, Blow Me Down was the brain-child of Mark Synnott, a very experienced American climber and alpinist. Mark has


Magnetron Carabiners

Image from Google OK, the name is kinda dorky but these are the coolest new carabiners I've ever seen : Magnetron Technology: The reinvention of the auto-locking carabiner, coming July 2012 from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo . The guy in the video, my friend Bill B., handed me one of these a few months ago to look at, but didn't tell me how they worked. I wracked my brain trying to figure it out as I effortlessly opened and closed the gate, and finally it was like, "MAGNETS!!!!!" I'm a gear geek, and this is a huge step


Notes from Chamonix

Image from Google On June 15 we shipped the AAJ to the printer and I hopped a plane to Europe. I’d been working my ass off for far longer than I want – like months – which left me wondering: “How the fuck do people work like this all year round? And why? No wonder so many seem [...]


Sponsorship and "Extreme!" Sports

Image from Google "How do I get sponsored?" I get that question a lot. Usually there's a fresh-faced young person on the other end of the email, wanting to quit school and go climbing/kayaking/skateboarding/snowboarding/whatever for ever. And I fully support the idea of following your dreams, even if the dreams turn into nightmares. Sometimes it's a matter of crossing things off a life list until you find what you like. So even bad decisions can lead to good outcomes; it's like turning clay into a pot, sometimes you just


The Bright Side of the ‘Dark Side’ Director

Last year we brought you the visionary surf film Dark Side of the Lens from photographer Mickey Smith. Well, Mickey has a new film out, a music video called Old Pine for singer Ben Howard, and its as bright as Dark Side was dark. The song kicks ass, Ben has a distinctive warbly voice, and [...]


Point Blank

Image from Google Keith had previously revelled about his experience on an E5 called “Out of my Mind”, that last year he had tried and backed off from after getting out of his mind with fear and pump. The tide was in, “Ghost Train” looked even wetter than before, and so warm up routes were in short supply – time to get a little out there... The first challenge of the day was to access the belay stance, involving a timed dash across a wave washed platform. At times the waves were mellow, barely covering your feet,


Support

Image from Google It seemed to take ages for that Cold to clear. A couple of days before it did I had a reasonable training session. The next sesion after a rest day when I felt better I was climbing really bad really heavy in the ass! I tried a 7c+ I did the previous week but [...]