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Expedition Availability

Image from Google I hope everybody had a wonderful New Year's celebration. Talkeetna really does it up with fireworks (unregulated) going on everywhere. Despite temperatures staying well below zero everybody gets out and about to go to bonfires and watch fireworks. Here's the latest on availability for 2012 expeditions. EXPEDITIONS Denali West Buttress April 27 - May 17: 6 spaces available April 29 - May 19: 5 spaces available May 8 - May 28: 6 spaces available May 11 - 31: 5 spaces available May 13 - June 2: 2 spaces ...


Denali West Buttress Update!

Image from Google We are having a busy couple of days, phone calls and applications to process. Here is a list of availability for our Denali West Buttress Climbs! Hope to see you in Talkeetna! Denali West Buttress : 21 Days, $6400, 6 climbers:2-3 guides April 27 - May 17 6 spaces available April 29 - May 19 5 spaces available May 8 - May 28 6 spaces available May 11 - May 31 6 spaces available May 13 - June 2 3 spaces available May 21 - June 10 (FULL) May 26 - June 15 1 space available May 28 - June 17 1 space available


Winter Is Coming...

Image from Google Here at the Ice Factor we're all starting to get psyched for the winter season again - it certainly doesn't feel like summer up here any more, with a bite in the air already and the hills starting to take on the purples and browns of Autumn. With that in mind, here's something you can enjoy with us to get you stoked too... STS Dry Tooling Competition We'll be hosting the first round of this annual competition this year. It isn't just an elite competition (although the 'great and the good' do often join ...


Ines Papert Repeats Super Cirill

A story by Ines Papert (Tessin, Valle Bavona) redpoint/clean 8a/8a+ "Super Cirill is one of the most beautiful routes I have ever climbed" 200m, 7a+, 7a+, 7b+, 7c+/8a, 8a/8a+, 6c+, 6c, 6a+ Graded 8a/8a+ the 9 pitch route Super Cirill on Parete di Sonlerto is the hardest free climbing multi pitch route in Tessin. Many cracks interrupted by dihedrals and exposed traverses provide for a technically challenging climbing experience. Impressions by Ines Papert Retrospect The double crack, hard as bone and just


Himalaya 2011: Climber Reportedly Dies On Everest

Image from Google ExWeb is reporting this morning that an American climber by the name of Rick Hitch has died on Everest. Hitch was apparently on his way to Camp 3 with the IMG team when he collapsed on the mountain. The guides attempted to revive him for more than 45 minutes, but to no avail. He was 55 years old. According to this story in Rick's hometown paper, he was attempting to climb the Seven Summits and had completed six of those peaks, leaving just Everest remaining on his list. Hitch, along with his wife Loretta,


Llanberis Mountain Film Festival 2011 – 18th – 20th March 2011

Image from Google Were open for film entries for the film competitions. The deadline for entries is the 20th of Februrary 2011. Tickets are available to book at Joe Browns and V12. Availability of tickets is limited so book early to avoid disappointment. Dont worry if you fail to get a ticket as there will be plenty of [...] Llanberis Mountain Film Festival 2011 18th 20th March 2011 is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you might


Everest Base Camp trek day 13 - Lurching up to Lobuche

We stood leaning on our poles, gasping for breath in the cold morning air at the top of the steep hill directly behind the lodge, right at the start of the trek from Dingboche to Lobuche. "How high have we climbed now?" asked Lise, in between gasps for oxygen that just wasn't there. I checked my watch. "10 metres," I panted, "only 390 to go..." "Al..." she replied, "....don't do that." The mornings were becoming increasingly hard, as Lise's panic breathing (Cheyne-Stokes Respiration, apparently) was ...


Everest Base Camp trek day 3 - lucked out over Lukla

Image from Google This customer service is amazing, I remember thinking as I joined two cleaners, one bin man and one sharp-suited Tala Air check-in official in a frantic rummage through a small rubbish tip just off the runway, theres no way youd ever get this in England! Lets rewind a little. Our 7am flight to Lukla was rescheduled to 9.15, but as Yalamber said, its not hard and fast 9.15.... No kidding. Lukla is one of the most difficult and dangerous landings in the world, and what we didnt find in any guidebook was that


Bonus Sherpa: Cheer Finder

Bonus Sherpa: Cheer Finder Searching for ways to sweeten the season? Its easy to add a spoonful of spirit to the holidays. Tree Topper: Work up your holly jollies during a 2-mile (one-way) hike to the top of Angel Islands Mount Livermore, where strands of solar-powered lights stretch from a pole to form a tree. At night the tree lights can be seen from surrounding cities. Cut Above: Combine tailgating and Christmas tree hunting at a sustainable farm that uses stump culture in re-growth patterns. Whether


Training for winter climbing - some thoughts

Donald King ready for a big pitch of weirdness on Unicorn VII,8 Glencoe At this time of year, especially with the deluge of snow, everyone is suddenly psyched to get in their best shape for winter climbing (what? you mean you haven’t been training for months?!). It’s funny to me how much the prevailing memes about training for winter climbing have changed since I started climbing. In the early nineties, some misguided old souls still trained for winter by walking up hills in the October sleet and ...