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2012 Mugs Stump Grant Recipients

Image from Google 2012 MUGS STUMP AWARD RECIPIENTS ANNOUNCED Ventura, CA (January 9, 2012)-- The recipients of the 2012 Mugs Stump Award were announced today. The award, sponsored by Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd., Mountain Gear, Patagonia, Inc., and W.L. Gore Associates, Inc., was created in 1992 in memory of Mugs Stump, one of North America's most visionary climbers. In the 20 years since its inception, the Mugs Stump Award has provided $324,000 in grants to small teams pursuing climbing objectives that


Avalanche on Aonach Mor

Finally there was a break in the high winds which seem to have been battering Scotland over the past few weeks. I took the oppertunity to get up on to the summit of Aonach Mor. From the plateau I saw evidence of a large slab avalanche in Coire an Lochain. In this picture I have marked the crown wall (or what I could see) in the picture above in red. I estimated this to be over 200 metres long. There was plenty of debris right down to the loch. This avalanche probabley released sometime on Wednesday during


Avalanche on the Ben.

Today we were up on Ben Nevis for a wee look about. In general there is lots of snow, and winter climbing conditions are looking good, and there were very few people about. There has been a large avalanche from below the Orion face. The crown wall ran all the way from below the first platform of North East Buttress to below Observatory Ridge. In the photo I have marked the most obvious bit of the crown wall in red. The height of this crown wall was quite variable, and in some sections it was quite shallow


Chinese Trifecta on Home Ground

T he Chinese team of Yan DongDong and Zhou Peng established three new routes in the Minya Konka Range of China's Sichuan Province. The pair climbed the north face of Reddomain (6112m), the west face of Jiazi (6540m) and, accompanied by filmmaker Li Shuang, the south face of Xiao Gongga (5928m). While Chinese mountaineering has traditionally been dominated by large, siege-style expeditions involving either commercial or governmental entities, this recent expedition breaks from that past. Yan and Zhou ...


K2 Winter Update: Russians In Pakistan

Image from Google One of the big expeditions for the winter ahead is the attempt to summit K2 by an all-star team of Russian climbers. Considering the fact that the "Savage Mountain" has never been climbed in the winter, and is amongst the most challenging feats in all of mountaineering under the best of conditions, this project is likely to garner quite a bit of attention in the weeks ahead. According to the official expedition website , the climbing team arrived in Pakistan today and have been working to get their gear


Search For Missing Annapurna Climbers Called Off

Image from Google Explorers Web is reporting that search parties on Annapurna called off their efforts to find three missing Korean climbers on Friday after finding no trace of the men.Park Young Seok, Dong-Min Shin and Gi-Seok Gang all went missing a few weeks back after they made an attempt to summit the 8091 meter (26,545 ft) peak late in the Fall season. The last anyone heard from them was on October 18th, when they radioed their Base Camp to let their support team know that they were turning back after encountering ...


Fowler and Turnbull Make First Ascent in Nepal

The following News Flash is a preliminary report on a breaking story. Alpinist.com will post a follow-up when more information become available. -Ed According to a British Mountaineering Council report , Mick Fowler and BMC CEO Dave Turnbull have made the first ascent of Mugu Chuli (6310m) in western Nepal. In a brief message Turnbull told the BMC, "Success on Gojung (aka Mugu Chuli) 4 days up 3 days down + storm on top. Harder than expected and difficult descent." Mugu Chuli was first reported in 2008 by


Mountain Conditions – Oct. 26th 2011

NORTHWEST: -- Ski slopes are starting to look inviting but objective hazards are also present. Early season snow comes with many hazards, beware of un-plugged but hidden crevasses, cornices, avalanches and other hazards related to low snow-pack and ear...


Himalaya Fall 2011: Annapurna Update

Image from Google There isn't a whole lot of news from Annapurna yet regarding the Korean team that ran into problems on that mountain while making an ascent yesterday. ExWeb has posted an update to their story that does offer a few more clues however, and it isn't sounding good. That last we heard from the team of Park Young Seok , Dong-Min Shin and Gi-Seok Gang they were heading up the mountain and hoping to make a summit bid today. It is believed that they ran into bad weather however and decided to descend instead, but


Himalaya Fall 2011: Climbers In Trouble On Annapurna?

Image from Google Yesterday I reported that Explorers Web had the scoop on a late season attempt on Annapurna, in which a team of three Korean climbers were planning making a summit bid tomorrow. Today, it seems, the news from the mountain could be grim, as ExWeb now reports that the team's leader could be missing. The details are still a bit sketchy, but it seems that the team experienced bad weather on their ascent and elected to turn back. What happened after that remains a mystery at the moment, but local reports seem