from The Alpinist - newswire
On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakoram's Saser Kangri II (7518m), the world's second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunzang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering. The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m) ascends the southwest face. The Eastern Karakoram was closed to climbing up until April 2010 due to border ...
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Between July 15 and August 3, an Anglo-Danish team of climbers explored the eastern part of the Djangart region of Kyrgyzstan. Inspired by a Mike Royer's 2010 trip report in the American Alpine Journal on the western part of the Djangart, the team was excited to explore a region that offered the opportunity to make first ascents of unclimbed mountains. The eastern Djangart has seen few climbing expeditions in recent years, and its remote location and abundance of untouched territory lent itself to the kind
published: 9 months ago
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downloaded: 9 months ago
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from Petzl Blog
Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-07-26 The first time I set eyes on Kjerag I knew I wanted to climb it. Perhaps the worlds most famous BASE jumping cliff, this 1000m vertical wall rising straight out from the sea was just asking to be climbed. In most cases dreams like this remain dreams, with logistics, finances and life in general standing firmly in the way, but this time I had my hand held. The Norwegians are such a friendly bunch, and on-it with their organising. As soon as I said I was keen all I
published: 10 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Approaching the guillotine flake before the crux pitch or the Longhope Direct. Photo: LW Images Starting into the crux Photo: LW Images Bringing Andy Turner up to the Guillotine belay. Photo: LW Images The Longhope route was first climbed as an aid route by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. After climbing it yesterday I have a doubly renewed respect for the boldness of climbers of that period. To venture up that cliff without cams, taking the steepest line possible was a hardcore effort. They spent 7
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
At the 2011 Piolets d'Or, members of the jury asked Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand if they would recommend their route The Rose of No Man's Land , on Mt. Edgar's east face (6618m), to other climbers. Their answer was. "No." They explained that the only approach to the face is a terrain trap. This face is where, in 2009 , Johnny Copp, Micah Dash and Wade Johnson were killed in an avalanche. But Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura, Ryo Masumoto and Takaaki Nagato felt that more routes on Edgar's east face
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
A story by Will Stanhope Andrew has that hell-bent look in his eyes. He scratches his fingers in the back of a grotty finger crack, seeking any sort of jam at all. "I don't know how you did this!" he yells into the wind. I try to smile through chattering teeth, and belay him up to my stance: A few nuts and a undercammed TCU shoved sideways into a strange, beautiful horizontal crystalline crack. Nobody has ever been to this little cave before, and I get an uncomfortable, eerie feel from it. I've butted us
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
This summer, brothers Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, fellow Belgian Sean Villanueva and American climber and photographer Ben Ditto climbed a string of new routes on the west coast of Greenland. To add to the adventure, they accessed these climbs from a floating base camp; British sailor Bob Shepton hosted the expedition on his 10-meter Westerly, Dodo's Delight. Despite a broken engine, Shepton sailed 300 miles in the first week of July through iceberg-filled fjords to Sortehul Fjordin. There, the crew set
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Mikey Schaefer and I have just come back to Seattle from a quick, fantastic trip to the Stikine Icecap region, on the BC-Alaska border, near Petersburg, Alaska. I had been planning to visit Devil's Thumb for years, but until now never made it to this beautiful mountain range. Our objective was a complete traverse of the Devil's Thumb massif, climbing over the summits of the Witches Tits, Cat's Ears Spires, and finally Devil's Thumb itself. Like the Torres Traverse to Ermanno Salvaterra, this traverse ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
After three failed attempts in March, German climbers Robert Jasper, Joern Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn completed a rare ascent of Monte Sarmiento's west summit (2145m) on April 2. The Germans made the first ascent of the north face in 39 hours round trip, establishing La Odisea de Magellanes (WI4+) in alpine style. The route involves a 3000-meter elevation gain over the course of 20 kilometers. Well over 100 miles from the nearest settlement, the remote peak towers over the Magdalena Channel in Chilean ...
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman of Washington State have established a significant new route on the southeast buttress of Mt. Bradley (9,104') in the Ruth Gorge of the Alaska Range. Noteworthy for its sustained difficulty, the route also marks an early start to the season: Allen and Zimmerman were likely the only climbers braving a series of early April storms on the high peaks. Vitalogy (Alaska Grade V: M6+ WI5 5.9 R A1, 4,600') ascends what Zimmerman calls "a striking line of ice" about 350 meters right
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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