from Online Climbing Coach
I’ve just spent the week staying with family in Glasgow and visiting the fantastic new TCA bouldering centre as often as muscles allow. It’s obviously a bit different from most bouldering facilities, being the biggest in the UK, and this brings many new benefits for training, as well as some new ptifalls. Some observations on these: The first observation I made which was very heartening, was the notable absence of people complaining about being too short, or the moves being too reachy. Obviously, part
published: 4 months ago
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downloaded: 4 months ago
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40 views
from Climbing Narcissist
Fresh off a trip to Font, Nalle Hukkataival returned to a project in his native Finland that he was finally able to dispatch after a prolonged effort: It’s a great problem on bulletproof granite and climbs extremely well. Every move requires lots of body tension and shoulder strength. It climbs very differently than granite usually [...] New V14 In Finland By Nalle Hukkataival from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Climbing Video: Nalle Hukkataival In Finland
published: 7 months ago
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downloaded: 7 months ago
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31 views
from Outdoor Habit
This winter has been very productive for me as far as finishing up some awesome bouldering projects around the front range. First up was Valhalla (V7) on Flagstaff. This is a very fun, very steep problem with a couple sharp crimps and a last move that spit me off time and again on link. I was able to do the high start (Valkyrie, V5) in one session, but the last move is just hard enough to be the redpoint crux for me. After falling there about 8-10 seperate times over multiple sessions, I went back on a ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from gravsports
First off, specific training rules for performance results as measured by time expended and real-world results. I received the photos of a Pennsylvania "plice" (plywood ice, like the one in my back yard ) today, so cool! Nice one JW! Total cost: $82. No excuse not to have one. Next, I don't think I did a very good job of differentiating between "core" strength, body tension and "abs" in my last post. So I'll try again to clear it up in my own head. People wouldn't have to work their "core" if they just did
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from gravsports
My ideal training environment has the following in it: Some sort of ice climbing simulator thing (Plice). A place to run around outside. Rings, both Rock Rings and gymnastic rings, place to hang 'em. Some weight and a bar. A stylie set of Olympic bumper plate weights would be nice, but I've got a bunch of weights we got at garage sales for pennies. They work fine. Anything after this is gravy. Really. Exercise balls, machines, etc. etc. are somewhere between comfortable accessories and shiny garbage. It's
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from Bishop Bouldering Blog
Today Charlie Barrett sent his project at Rock Creek, the extremely hard sit start to the beautiful prow on the right side of the talus (across the river and up the hill from the Campground Boulder). The line has stood out as the "last great problem" at Rock Creek for several years, and Charlie put a dozen or more visits into it over the past year. Charlie, who has been working his way through the east side's hardest boulder problems (including ascents of Spectre , The Mandala Sit Start , Thunderbird , ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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54 views
from Mountains and Water
If you live on the Front Range, or read about bouldering on the Internet, you are probably aware that the Park is in full swing. I have been up there this week and have been enjoying the experience a great deal so far. My relationship with RMNP bouldering has been uneven to say the least, primarily for two reasons. First is the time it takes to get there and back, which is about two hours from my house to Lower Chaos canyon. However I am getting the hike more and more in hand, making the approach faster
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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54 views
from Online Climbing Coach
Since the explosion of bouldering, especially indoors, many climbers ask these days about how they should improve their body tension. However, the discussion is often limited because of a basic problem in actually defining what this performance quality is, and this leads climbers on the wrong path for training it. Climbers frequently refer to body tension as a strength component. Most would agree on the objective - to be able to keep the feet on the holds more and to apply more force through the feet. The
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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82 views
from Online Climbing Coach
Many of you have emailed or commented asking me to talk a bit more about my board and the structure of my sessions. The short version is that I have been using it most evenings after work and I’ve made really good strength gains in the past 5 months or so. I’ve also been almost constant on the edge of getting injured - climbing in there is pretty damn intense. I’m used to training for several hours at a climbing wall, so I’m conditioned to keep going. But 1 hour on my board equals about 2 in a ...
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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111 views
from TheLowDown
Barbara Raudner has made the first female ascent of Berni Fiedler's Gott gegen Lisa Simpson , 8b+, at the Adlitzgräben, Austria. The route follows Drei Tage runder Mond , 7c+, for the first 15m before heading left into the business, a hard boulder section on small hold which requires a lot of body tension and power. Photos: Barbara Raudner on Gott gegen Lisa Simpson, 8b+, by Claudia Ziegler
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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52 views
