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Kutcher Takes Ouray 2012

Mild weather and thick ice welcomed more than 3,000 climbers from around the world to the 17th Annual Ouray Ice Festival this weekend at the Ouray Ice Park in southwest Colorado. An early season of cold nights and warm afternoons created ideal ice conditions in the park's flooded box canyon, which set the stage for the festival's Elite Mixed Climbing Competition. Nathan Kutcher, in his first appearance at the festival, took home the championship title, beating the only other competitor to top out, Andres


Climbing all up in the Interwebs

Image from Google What’s in the Internet water these days? People are being nice, even in forums. ‘Tis the season, I suppose. • Someone started a random thread on Mountain Project thanking Matt Samet: “Aside from replacing a boatload of bolts for the ARI, putting up a bunch of routes, and writing a lot of funny articles over the years, [...]


Maltese Climbing, Maltese Madness, by Stevie completely normal Haston.

Image from Google unclimbed cliff! Just spent three weeks in Malta and Gozo, what can I say, apart from being very happy and comfortable with reaffirming my Maltese roots. I’ll be honest from the start, I did the tinniest bit of climbing and the maximum amount of free diving. The Maltese side of the family are reassuringly still doing their thing, a bit of farming, some work, too much eating, and family stuff. It was easy to drop right back into this life, talking serious one second, nonsense the next, catching fish and


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 11 (The finale! Odyssey & the SG)

This is the end my friends. The final trip report from Upskill 2011 Kalymnos climbing camps. This'll be a good-un though, so read on for your last little hit of Kalymnos for the year. ODYSSEY A bit of a fave, you've probably gathered by now. Day nine of climbing and there were some tired bodies! But only two days of climbing left, so time to pull out all the stops and give it heaps! Besides, it had to be Odyssey, as Bo refused to leave the island without Atena 6b+ in her satchel. We headed up to the left


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 10 (Kalydna, Iannis & Spartacus)

Keywords:
Bo, SPARTACUS, yo, Susy, nuts, Owen, hangers, anchors, 7b, Andy

Day seven of climbing. Perhaps the highlight day so far? I don't know, you be the judge. We started with a group vote on where we wanted to go for the final four climbing days of the trip. Plans were made, guidebooks were consulted, and dates were made with dogs that had been left behind at various cliffs to date. KALYDNA If you were playing along at home you know we went to Kalydna on day two . You'll also know that Owen, Andy and Susy found a friend for life in the 30m Nickel which is a 7a+ pitch which


Black Canyon Regulations

Image from Google Proposed Changes to Climbing Regulations in the Black Canyon The management of the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park, near Montrose, CO, is being reevaluated. Since 2004 climbing in the park has been regulated under the Interim Climbing Management Plan, a temporary set of policies that governed the park's activities until an environmental assessment was completed. Upon completion of the environmental assessment, the National Park Service has revised the management policies for the entire park, to ...


Century Crack 2 by Stevie Good Job Haston

Image from Google WARNING : Don’t read this if you are not a nerdy climber! Mine is bigger than yours! I had a couple of Emails late last from America concerning the ethics of Trad-climbing and crack climbing, mainly from older climbers or people with a strong foundation in climbing on gear. Climbing on gear is very special in that it allows you to protect your route without anything being in place and thus ‘clean’, it is in fact termed clean climbing sometimes, and it also allows you at its best to do new routes ...


World Climbing - Rock Odyssey, by Simon Carter

2009 was our first foray to the unknown delights of Vietnam and its limestone towers in Ha Long Bay. (You can find our 2009 trip reports and video here ). We had a stack of fun and I was particularly impressed by one limestone tower which had just two routes ( The Face 7b+ and License to Climb 7b). It was the most impressive and striking towers I'd seen in a bay which has over 2,000 limestone towers. After we left, I kept in the back of my mind the dream of establishing an extension to License to Climb ...


More on K7 West

Image from Google Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar climbed a new route on K7 West (6858m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. The duo completed the alpine-style ascent of Dreamers of Golden Caves (VI A2 M5, 1600m) in four days, between September 6 and 9. This likely marks the second route to reach the summit and the third ascent overall of K7 West. The peak's climbing history began in 1982, when a Japanese team attempted K7 West via the west ridge. They left behind bolts, pins, fixed-cable ladders and an unclimbed ...


2011 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell

Image from Google Last weekend 250 crazy people climbers spent 24 straight hours clipping bolts at Arkansas Horseshoe Canyon Ranch for the aptly named 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell.  Nate Drolet and Brent Perkins won by setting a new event record, amassing 56,370 points across 205 routes between 5.9 and 5.12d.  Full results can be found here and a write-up by [...] 2011 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: 2009 24 Hours Of Horseshoe Hell ...