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Avalanche on Aonach Mor

Finally there was a break in the high winds which seem to have been battering Scotland over the past few weeks. I took the oppertunity to get up on to the summit of Aonach Mor. From the plateau I saw evidence of a large slab avalanche in Coire an Lochain. In this picture I have marked the crown wall (or what I could see) in the picture above in red. I estimated this to be over 200 metres long. There was plenty of debris right down to the loch. This avalanche probabley released sometime on Wednesday during


Winter Climb Update: Waiting For A Weather Window On Denali

Image from Google There continues to be a lot of activity on the major winter climbs that are now taking place in Alaska and Pakistan. As is typical this time of year, the climbers are hoping to take advantage of any break in the weather that they get, but they also know that they have to continue their work, despite the conditions. On Denali, it seems that Lonnie Dupre is now waiting for a weather window to make an attempt at the summit. He has now climbed as high as 5242 meters (17,200 ft) as part of his acclimatization


Winter Climb Updates: Russians In K2 BC, Lonnie To High Camp

Image from Google While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest. The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their


Happy New Year from AMS

Image from Google We'll never complain about the snow but we could use a little bit of a break! It is -8F today and still managing to snow. Here's Colby's trying to keep up the pace. We'll be enjoying the local New Year's festivities this weekend and will be closed on Monday. We'll reopen on Tuesday January 3, 2012. Peace. Beardy doesn't mind the cold and snow as long as he has a heat lamp and fresh lettuce.


Breakage at Ice Caves

Image from Google One of the key holds for many of the climbs on the roof of the Beef Cave in the Ice Caves at the Sad Boulders has broken. The break, which happened at the end of November, was of the good finger-hold that was at the right end of the rail that Beautiful Gecko follows, a hold that also was important for lines Aquatic Hitchhiker , Feels Like a Barnacle , In the Aquarium and Windchill . While all these lines will be harder now, this break will probably have the most impact on Beautiful Gecko . Anyone who has


Antarctica 2011: Jordan Tops Out On Vinson, Completes Seven Summits!

Image from Google Just a quick update on 15-year old climber Jordan Romero , who finished his quest to climb the Seven Summits over the holiday weekend by successfully topping out on Mt. Vinson. Jordan, along with his father Paul and step-mom Karen, completed their climb on Christmas Eve, and were back in Base Camp in time for dinner. For Jordan, Vinson marked the conclusion of a quest that he started when he was just 10 years old. Inspired by a mural he saw at his school, the young man decided he wanted to climb the ...


Meeting the Queen

On Fat Boy Slim VI, 6, Ben Nevis the other day How do I winter climb again? After doing Anubis a couple of years ago I took a bit of a break from winter climbing. That route was a really nice piece of climbing and was very satisfying to climb. It was hard to find something good enough to follow it. I was also really missing bouldering and felt I hard to get some strength base together for climbing the Longhope. Last season I tried a couple of new routes that were maybe too hard, and then winter was over


Marin Roller Coaster

I'm sitting naked in the front seat of my car, it's dark outside and I can hear the rain rasping at the roof of the vehicle. The car smells musky and the heater is blasting my exposed skin with warm canned air. I look over at the mound of muddy shoes littering the passenger side foot cavity of the car, assessing my quiver and the state of my legs, trying to figure out what sort of support I feel like. My suit pants and tie are in a crumpled heap on the passenger seat. It's the main reason I buy iron free


Chinese American Team Makes First Ascent of 6060m Mt. Yangmolong

Image from Google On October 20 (2011) Jon Otto, Liu Yong (Daliu), Su Rongqin (Asu), and Tim Boelter made the first successful ascent of Mt. Yangmolong (6060m) in western Sichuan province of China. The conditions were better than hoped for and the was route fun and sustained. This peak is part of the Shaluli Shan Range and is on the border with eastern Tibet. This entire region is known as Kham and is ethnically Tibetan. Most of Yangmolong's north side is covered in unstable hanging glacier seracs high up on its face. The


Quick Trip to Joe’s

Image from Google I took a really quick trip to Joes Valley last week. College has been kind of stressful lately so it was nice to take a break and enjoy climbing and camping. Although I was only there for a couple of days, I managed to be fairly productive. I was lucky enough to come across a [...]