from The Adventure Blog
The winter attempt on Denali may be over for Lonnie Dupre , who was picked-up from Base Camp on Monday, but in the Karakoram, things are just getting started. Several teams have now settled into place and are working their routes in hopes of success during the coldest, harshest season of them all. On K2, the Russians are methodically sticking to their plan, and going about their work, in a professional and straightforward fashion. The weather has been less than cooperative so far, but that was to be ...
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
Whilst dining at the Rum Doodle restaurant in Kathmandu after the ascent of Baruntse Mera Peak , I decided to buy ‘The Ascent of Rum Doodle’ by W.E. Bowman. I had heard great reviews from the leaders and people who had previously read the book which is held in high regard among climbers. Reading the book is a delight, and the story pure genius. As I cannot do the book sufficient justice, below is an extract. If you understand the humour of this page and have never read the book, I strongly urge you to
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from The Adventure Blog
While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest. The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their
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from The Alpinist - newswire
Between July 22, 2011, and August 28, 2011, Russian/Ukrainian climbers Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya spent thirty-eight days establishing a new route, Parallelniy Mir (VI+ 6b A3), on the northwest face of Great Trango Tower (6238m). The team was recently voted the recipients the Russian Piolet d'Or, the first all-women's team to receive the award. Great Trango Tower, first climbed in 1977 by Dennis Hennek, Jim Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz is located on the
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from The Adventure Blog
I have updates on the two major winter climbs that are both about to get underway. In Alaska, Lonnie Dupre returns to Denali for a solo January ascent and in Pakistan, the Russian team goes after the toughest climb of them all, K2 in winter. We'll start in Alaska, where the weather finally cleared yesterday, allowing Lonnie to hit the mountain at last. He'll now start the process of establishing his Base Camp and organizing his gear ahead of the climb. Since this is to be the first solo January ascent of
published: 2 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Just when you think you've seen it all in terms of headlamp design, along comes the SnowMiner , by Snow Peak , to shake things up. This cleverly designed light looks like nothing else on the market, but that's just the start of what makes this lamp so great. Like any good headlamp, the SnowMiner is lightweight (just 2.3 ounces/65g without batteries), comfortable to wear, and provides plenty of light. It features two different pre-set levels of illumination, high (80 lumens) and low (8 lumens), and comes
published: 2 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
The all-star team of Russian climbers who will take on K2 this winter, have started the second leg of their journey. After arriving in Pakistan last weekend, they've been busy organizing their gear and planning the logistics of the expedition. After completing that process, they have now shipped their gear to Skardu, which serves as the gateway to the Karakoram, and they had hoped to hop a flight to that city as well. But weather delays have grounded air travel in the region, so they've elected to go by
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from The Adventure Blog
Keywords:
K2,
mountain,
winter,
One,
plan,
Russians,
Pakistan,
28,251 ft,
hardy band of Russians,
winter K2 attempt
One of the big expeditions for the winter ahead is the attempt to summit K2 by an all-star team of Russian climbers. Considering the fact that the "Savage Mountain" has never been climbed in the winter, and is amongst the most challenging feats in all of mountaineering under the best of conditions, this project is likely to garner quite a bit of attention in the weeks ahead. According to the official expedition website , the climbing team arrived in Pakistan today and have been working to get their gear
published: 2 months ago
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
Arriving at Baruntse Baruntse Base Camp The arrival at Baruntse was impressive one, as BC, the moraine, and the towering Southwest face of Baruntse opened out in front of us. This was our home for the next 10 days. During the rest of this day and the next, the first rest days we had had for 17 days, we got straight down to business. We only had a scheduled 10 days on the mountain so every day counted. The two days were spent organising piles and many barrels of food, equipment for high on the mountain, and
published: 2 months ago
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from Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton
Introduction This blog is to mark the expedition to climb Mera Peak and Baruntse and all the events that subsequently unfolded. Since making a crazy return from the Himalayas on the 17 th November, the last few weeks have been nothing short of hectic. I have struggled to completely piece this blog together, since how do explain the euphoria of reaching a summit such as Baruntse, or even Mera Peak and the Amphu Labtsa, when I can’t totally understand the feelings myself. Ironically, I found writing the
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