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Through the whole move

I’ve just spent the week staying with family in Glasgow and visiting the fantastic new TCA bouldering centre as often as muscles allow. It’s obviously a bit different from most bouldering facilities, being the biggest in the UK, and this brings many new benefits for training, as well as some new ptifalls. Some observations on these: The first observation I made which was very heartening, was the notable absence of people complaining about being too short, or the moves being too reachy. Obviously, part


Training the ability to try

If you see people in action during training (it’s easiest to observe in a traditional weights/cardio gym), it’s not hard to notice that theres a massive difference between the majority who are having a ‘light’ session to say the least, and the much smaller proportion who are really working their bodies hard. As an aside, If you do see those people in the gym who look like they aren’t trying - don’t scoff inwardly (or outwardly!) at them - not everyone goes to the gym to work hard. Some people


Training on the job

How on earth? I did have a plan to do a few easy winter routes before trying a couple of harder new lines I have an eye on, but curiosity for the hard routes rapidly got the better of that. I just had three tries on a fantastic new line with a 6 metre horizontal roof. The first attempt was a bit of a poor show to be totally honest. Climbing with tools is definitely feeling a bit alien still, so I did a lot of craning my neck looking up at it and making various excuses. There’s nothing wrong with doing a


Adam Ondra's training regime

Here's a collection of training tidbits from the world's best climber. Adam Ondra's training regime "I train more or less just by climbing. How simple! I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city. The way I train depends on what I am training for. If I am preparing for bouldering, I do just lot of hard boulders. If I train endurance I do laps. I figure out usually 20


Meeting the Queen

On Fat Boy Slim VI, 6, Ben Nevis the other day How do I winter climb again? After doing Anubis a couple of years ago I took a bit of a break from winter climbing. That route was a really nice piece of climbing and was very satisfying to climb. It was hard to find something good enough to follow it. I was also really missing bouldering and felt I hard to get some strength base together for climbing the Longhope. Last season I tried a couple of new routes that were maybe too hard, and then winter was over


Hoy on the horizon

Now after four weeks of thrashing it out on the circuits I’ve gone from zero stamina to nearly-got-stamina. It’s been almost exclusively on my board since the rain has been incessant in Scotland for the whole of May. Hence the lack of new routes to report. However, the focus has been good for me probably. My 60 move circuit is now extended to 100 moves and the rest between bouts are getting shorter every session. Still much more work to be done, but with that under my belt and a good forecast at last


More nav and session by the sea

Image from Google Today was day two for my navigation team. Today we headed up fro a circuit up and over Cnicht. Weather was really pleasant throughout the day, which usually means navigation was quite easy, so I turned up the difficulty to see what the team are capable of. A strong day from everybody. After work Blair, Caff, Luke and I headed down to the Great Orme for a crank on some sport routes. I sent Night Glue (7a+) and then had a play I've Been A Bad Bad Boy (7c) which was super hard, after Luke put the clips in for


The Hardboiled Emergency Blog Post

Image from Google The little problem called Hardboiled in Boulder Canyon has been getting quite a lot of attention recently. First ascended by Daniel Woods about 7 years ago, it quickly became part of a circuit of V10/11 problems in the canyon. Most recently a number of ascents included a strapped-on kneepad and it was clear that what had been a reasonably soft 8a was something else. Ryan Silven was the first to state the obvious by climbing it both ways. For the 8a version he wrote, " sans kneebars. the sequence is ...


Gear Box: Cycling Gear From Icebreaker

Image from Google Ahh... spring time. When the flowers are in bloom, the sun begins to warm the earth, and a young man's heart turns to the open road. We may yet be a few days from the first official day of spring, but where I live it is already starting to get warm. And now that we're back to longer days once again, I find my road bike is frequently calling my name, and the urge to peddle has overcome me once again. Fortunately, I have some stylish new gear to hit the road in this spring thanks to a new line of cycling ...


Lucky

Image from Google Even though I live in a big city - Sheffield, within 300 yards of my house lies Ecclesall Woods. The more I run in it, the luckier I realise I am to have such a superb resource so close. The stats say its 350 acres of woodland with 15km of public footpaths but I bet this is only the main ones, as there are hundreds of small tracks branching off in every direction. As I discover more of these pathways I'm gradually building up a collection of circuits ranging from 20 minutes to an hour, all through rolling