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SAIS report & blog users

Keen group ski touring near Glas Maol. Thanks for the comments about the reports and blog


Plastic power

With Scotland being hammered by the usual January gales and rain, I’ve been directing my climbing attentions over Christmas to a sustained attack on the fantastic TCA bouldering centre in Glasgow. I climbed a mountain of fantastic problems and definitely feel stronger for it, especially on big moves. There’s a lot of climbing space there and there are no shortage of leaps and jumps between the holds (some performance related comments on this over on my other blog ). An uninterrupted spell of good ...


Austrians in Highball Paradise

Image from Google Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven both from Austria, have been out in Bishop since around December 12 and have already completed some impressive ascents. Of particular note was Katha's ascent of This Side of Paradise (v10), the mammoth highball prow at the Bardini Boulders, and Jorg's ascent of Ambrosia at the Peabodies. I met these guys out in Zillertal, Austria a few years back when Lisa Rands presented a video by Sender Films in which she climbs This Side of Paradise . It was the incredible beauty


Breakage at Ice Caves

Image from Google One of the key holds for many of the climbs on the roof of the Beef Cave in the Ice Caves at the Sad Boulders has broken. The break, which happened at the end of November, was of the good finger-hold that was at the right end of the rail that Beautiful Gecko follows, a hold that also was important for lines Aquatic Hitchhiker , Feels Like a Barnacle , In the Aquarium and Windchill . While all these lines will be harder now, this break will probably have the most impact on Beautiful Gecko . Anyone who has


Explorers Club Follow-Up: More Details Emerge

Image from Google After posting my previous story last night on the unusual happenings at the Explorers Club ,I've now had a second source come forward to fill in more of the details and I've also spoken with an official from the Club itself.This is definitely an evolving story right now, with two very different perspectives of this situation. I'll try to best relate the details as they have been conveyed to me from both sides. First, I'll tell you what I heard back from the Club itself after I placed a phone call yesterday


Guess Where Swanky Will Break Down(First)? Or – A Pool to Fund Repairs

Last year, Swanky the van was brand new, to me. I bought it from a cop, and my mother(who was a nurse) once told me “Eye doctors can't see; ear doctors are deaf, and psychiatrists are crazy.” Well, I figure that line of thinking probably goes beyond the boundaries of the medical field, if you know what I mean. Now I know there are plenty of optometrists with 20/20 vision, just like most police are law-abiding citizens, but if the lies this guy told me about that van weren't a crime, I don't know what


The New York Times Looks At Speed Climbing

Image from Google The New York Times has posted a story and video on speed climbing in the world of mountaineering and takes a look at the approach to climbing, which inherently brings some risks for those who choose to go faster in the mountains. The article mentions or quotes a number of big name climbers, including Steve House, who has a few harsh things to say about the approach, saying that speed records are for stroking someone's "ego." The Times also interviews Chad Kellogg about his attempts at a speed record on ...


Climbing Without a Helmet? Now that’s Scary!

Image from Google Don't wear a helmet while climbing? This post might change your mind, plus you can win one from Petzl by simply leaving a comment.


Thoughts on the World Cup (or what happened after)

Image from Google OK, I admit it. I have been putting off writing about climbing. Not because of the latest compliment/putdown by Andrew B. And it's not because I have been trying desperately to get in just one more decent session on European Human Being before the snow entombs it until next July, though that has been an issue. It could be apathy, could be laziness, it could be burnout. Whatever, as people used to say before whatever became, well, whatever. Then the World Cup rolled into town last week and I began thinking


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