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Kutcher Takes Ouray 2012

Mild weather and thick ice welcomed more than 3,000 climbers from around the world to the 17th Annual Ouray Ice Festival this weekend at the Ouray Ice Park in southwest Colorado. An early season of cold nights and warm afternoons created ideal ice conditions in the park's flooded box canyon, which set the stage for the festival's Elite Mixed Climbing Competition. Nathan Kutcher, in his first appearance at the festival, took home the championship title, beating the only other competitor to top out, Andres


Yoga climbing, by Stevie novice Haston.

Image from Google The Yoga breathing is working for the climbing, but its not working so well for my swimming, phooee! The problem with my climbing now is that I am relatively weak. The Yoga has worked because it has maximised my potential at this level of strength, but I cant do any better. In fact I think I am really lucky to have squeezed out my last few ascents. So in truth it’s back to some basic training because I lack the ability to do a long sustained sequence, or a hard powerful pull, or two. In my underwater ...


Video: Harrowing Mountain Bike Crash

Image from Google I came across this video at Adventure Journal earlier today and thought that while it was incredibly scary it was also worth sharing. The crash that you see in the video took place during the Victorian Downhill State Series of races that are held in Australia, and while it looks brutal, we're told that the person involved in the accident was not injured. When you watch the footage however, you'll see that if that is true, they were extremely lucky. Steve Casamiro, who is the editor of Adventure Journal,


The limiting factor - setting

The limiting factor in your rate of improvement can sometimes be something that never changes throughout your climbing career. That’s not to say they are inescapable, just that folk simply never take the bull by the horns and change them. ‘Permanent’ limiting factors are things like only climbing a couple of times a week, avoiding overhangs, never learning how to try hard or focus, or being scared of falling. Other limiting factors are more often important for part of your career. Things such as ...


New Low

I've been told for a while now that my writing is pretty honest so in this post I'll continue that and try give you an idea of what I've experienced in the last two days. If you've been following this blog you will know I've been attempting to climb an E8 in the Mournes for around 18 months and had no luck. I've poured my life and soul into these 20m of rock and even for someone like me it's been a brutal emotional rollercoaster. In the past when I've been going at risky routes I've always been fairly ...


Saser Kangri II In Alpine Style

Image from Google On August 24, 2011 Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson made the first ascent of the Eastern Karakoram's Saser Kangri II (7518m), the world's second highest unclimbed peak. The American team started the climb from the South Shukpa Kunzang Glacier. Their climb is one of the highest first ascents of a peak in alpine style in the history of mountaineering. The Old Breed (WI4 M3, 1700m) ascends the southwest face. The Eastern Karakoram was closed to climbing up until April 2010 due to border ...


Adam Campbell Knee Knacker Race Report

Keywords:
Aaron, Races, lie, Ollie, back, win, trail, chase, fuck, split

Image from Google Four of us are standing around, knee deep in the chilly northern Pacific Ocean, trying desperately to offset and numb the pain in our legs. We can barely feel the crushed rocks and shells under our feet. Salt is crusted on our faces and jerseys, we all look a dazed, squinting into the sun thats bathing the cove, as our bodies struggle to come back into balance. Were mumbling inanely, wrestling with our incoherent and tired thoughts, but happy to no longer be trapped in our internal monologue. We chatter


International DWS

Image from Google Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-08-16 Borre handed me another beer. The main dude behind the Norwegian Rockmaster. The second event, in 2010, had been a good one. "Steve, how can we make the competition even better?" I thought for a minute. "You want something that stands out from the crowds? The way to go is DWS!" A year later and I'm back. There have been a lot of emails and phone calls as we put together a plan; rules, wall design, timings. But I can take no credit for this, the endless enthusiasm and


Climbing training tips based on YOUR level

Climbing is an incredibly complex sport. It's not like throwing a javelin. There are so many different factors that come into play and require training. Also, it's worth remembering that what one climber sees as improvement (or success) doesn't necessarily equal improvement for another. Someone might aspire towards pure gymnastic difficulty (grades) while someone else might value variety, or volume, or style, or the social aspect of climbing or just having fun. Usually it's a combination. In the case of


More on MRTs

I’m back home from a couple of good days with the Mountain Equipment team in Manchester. I was speaking in lecture at the ME store talking about trying to arrive at a confident state for heading back up to Orkney again for sessions on my project. To help with that I finally got a nice day to head out with Anna and do some tradding. This is the difficulty in Scotland sometimes - Although I feel quite fit now from Steall and board sessions, there’s no substitute for going out and leading a lot of long