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Dempster, Kennedy Nab Charakusa FA

Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy recently made the first ascent of Pakistan's Hassan Peak (6300m). Hassan Peak is located in Pakistan's Charakusa Valley just north of K6. The pair climbed the peak via it's previously attempted west face overcoming difficulties of WI5, M5 on their two day ascent. Steve Swenson, Hans Mitterer and Raphael Slawinski attempted Hassan Peak in 2005, but retreated from dangerous conditions 300 meters below the summit. Dempster told Alpinist.com that Hassan Peak as seen from base


Black Canyon Regulations

Image from Google Proposed Changes to Climbing Regulations in the Black Canyon The management of the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park, near Montrose, CO, is being reevaluated. Since 2004 climbing in the park has been regulated under the Interim Climbing Management Plan, a temporary set of policies that governed the park's activities until an environmental assessment was completed. Upon completion of the environmental assessment, the National Park Service has revised the management policies for the entire park, to ...


Ice Season Cometh: Q and A

First off, sorry for the long delay in blogging. I've been stupid busy with everything from getting my first guiding exam done, family, writing, doing a couple of TV shows and of course climbing, mountain biking (broke some ribs, healing now), travel, and just life. Enough excuses, I'm back, thanks for the heckling/encouraging emails. I'm going to do a new section of this blog where I answer questions from readers, starting with these: 1) There has be a lot of discussion on knots for tying ropes to rappel.


Somethin’ ’bout Nothin’: Kelly Cordes on Alpinism

In the following video, climbing writer, former American Alpine Institute Guide and Patagonia product tester Kelly Cordes discusses his training techniques and his style of climbing. Cordes refers to his alpine climbing strategy as "disaster style...


2011-08-21 13:51:00

Since Canada I have been in real adventure mode; exploring, questing, learning, suffering, progressing and resting, usually in the middle of the mountains, with no phone or internet.  The reason - Joy Division, a 20 pitch route on the Qualido wall, Val Di Mello.  The result – sore muscles, sorer skin, and a fast track course in Big wall bumbling. A Brief History of the route... Climbing on Qualido dates back to 1978, and as expected, a whole host of mixed (aid and free) routes appeared over the next


Busy Weekend in RMNP

Image from Google Last weekend was an active one for Colorado's Longs Peak. On Friday Alpinist Contributor and Mountain Standards Reviewer Blake Herrington completed the "Quadruple Lindy." The next day Josh Wharton made the first free ascent of the Diamond's Dunn-Westbay formerly graded at 5.10, A3, 1000 feet. Conceived by Bill Wright and Kelly Cordes in 2003, the "Triple Lindy" climbs the three biggest rock faces in RMNP, the Diamond (Longs Peak East Face), Chief's Head North West Face, Mount Alice East Face in a day ...


Petzl XION Rope Review

Image from Google The Petzl XION is a great all around rope, combining excellent durability with the feel of a much smaller cord.


Voies et parois à (re)découvrir

Keywords:
Le, La, Il, tre, voie, sur, Quelque, longueurs, va, escalade

Image from Google Posted By Liv Sansoz the 2010-10-05 Voil un certain temps que je n'avais pas crit de news alors que je n'ai pas arrt de grimper. Rien de mutant ni d'exceptionnel cependant, juste de belles voies en montagne, partages avec de supers compagnons de corde. C'est une des richesses de l'escalade : en plus du ct purement sportif qui apporte dj son lot d'motions, de petits doutes et de satisfactions, le ct humain les exacerbe. Voici une petite slection de voies partager entre vrais amis... Commenons par la plus


Honnold Flies Up Half Dome and The Nose in 8 Hours

News Flash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more information becomes available.--Ed. Alex Honnold broke at least one Yosemite speed record on Tuesday when he solo climbed the Regular Northwest Face (VI 5.12a, 23 pitches) on Half Dome and The Nose (VI 5.9 C1, 31 pitches) on El Capitan. His ascent of the Regular Northwest Face took 2 hours and 9 minutes--a new ...


Belay forces and A look at the "Equallette"

Image from Google Holy writing, I've spent too much time thinking about this stuff but I'm a climbing nerd... First off, if you're following this whole discussion you'll likely enjoy the comments section of the last two posts, some really good ideas and thoughts without the usual "the internet makes you stupid) influence in forums. Thanks for that to all who wrote. The main question I have with most of the research done on belay anchors that I've seen is that it doesn't take into account the weight of the belayer (belayers)