from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Pitch 1 (wet 7c+) of Ring of Fire during the first ascent in Peak Cavern. All pics Triple Echo Productions. The other shoot I just finished with Triple Echo for the BBC was even weirder than the Handa adventure! The director Richard Else managed to get special permission to climb in the show cave Peak Cavern near Castleton right in the middle of the Peak District. The idea was for myself and Alan Cassidy to see if we could find a route out of it! Peak Cavern, otherwise known as 'The Devil's Arse' is one of
published: 6 months ago
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downloaded: 6 months ago
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49 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
On July 11 Juneau locals Ryan Johnson and Gabe Hayden made the first free ascent of the south buttress on the main tower of the Mendenhall Towers outside Juneau, Alaska. The climb is graded 5.11a, ascending the 2000 foot tower. The South Buttress Direct was first climbed in 1973 by John Svenson and Mike Clark; this recent climb was likely the second ascent of the line. After speaking with Svenson about the line, Johnson went up to the towers in March with friend Jason Nelson climbing a nearby pillar in ...
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 10 months ago
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26 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
Recently, a six-day weather window afforded a gathering of climbers in Patagonia the chance to tackle numerous objectives in the Fitz Roy, Pollone and Cerro Torre Massifs. Between February 7 and 13, teams put up a variety of first ascents, FFAs, significant attempts and variations. "Apparently the weather would stay good for several more days, which had compelled some folks to wait and plan bigger objectives, and others to try and to cram back-to-back climbs," climber Blake Herrington wrote in his blog. On
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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134 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
In late December, as the weather cleared over Argentinean Patagonia, three Washington-based climbers teamed up for a new route on the east face of Aguja Mermoz. In a 26-hour push Mike Schaefer, Jens Holsten and Colin Haley climbed Jardines Japoneses (5.10 A1 AI4 M5, 650m) on December 26th. The route follows an ice and mixed gully into a complicated crack system, and then joins the Argentinean route for several pitches of excellent granite to the summit. Schaefer attempted the line in 2009, but was ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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130 views
from Steven Hope
On pitch 3 looking up the wall makes it look pretty easy, but there’s a real problem with perspective here. For those unfamiliar, the line follows a crack system up to the small triangular roof - close up below.
Finally looking down from near the top, I still think it’s not as big as I thought. At 5.8 C2, it’s technically possible for me one day, with the biggest hurdle for me being getting there for the right conditions.
Original images from ukclimbing.com .
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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51 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
Late this spring, various teams from Italy, Germany and Peru established at least six new routes in Bolivia's Cordilleras Blanca and Real, and in the Central Range of Peru. Three Italians--Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura--climbed two new routes in Peru's Cordillera Blanca during May. They established El Sueno de los Excluidos (max VII/VII+ [5.11a] A2, 1440m) on the southeast face of Nevado Shaqsha in the Quebrada Rurec Valley. Requiring four full days of climbing from May 11-17, the
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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62 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
Italian climbers Maurizio Oviglia and Rolando Larcher are no strangers to new routing in the Mediterranean. Together they've established climbs in Sardinia, Morocco, Turkey and the Dolomites; Oviglia, author of Postcards from Sardinia in Alpinist 26, alone has climbed roughly 1,000 new routes on that island. Yet on the rock of nearby Corsica, Oviglia had never made his mark as a first ascensionist, despite numerous visits to its excellent crags over the past 20 years. On April 16 at Col de Bavella--what
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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60 views
from Arc'teryx Latest News
A story by Jason Kruk I tossed and turned, my mind racing, a knot twisting itself tighter in my stomach. I was shifting back and forth trying to get comfortable on the hard granite boulder, disturbing the rest of Hayden, the body shivering beside me in our specially made, two person bivy sack. My sleep was being disturbed by one singular fear - the fear of failure. We were bivied below the Supercanaleta route (WI4- 5.10 M5, 1600m) on the mighty Cerro Fitz Roy. A little less than a week prior, Hayden and I
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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117 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
Clint Estes and Matt Hepp of Colorado set out for Pakistan in late August to explore, climb and provide aid in the Kondus Valley, at the heart of the Kashmir conflict, an area packed with granite pillars but usually off-limits to the public. Despite proper paperwork, Estes and Hepp were turned away. But the Americans stayed in Pakistan for five weeks and found other spires to climb and villages to assist. The expedition was supported by donations and an American Alpine Club Zack Martin Breaking Barriers
published: over 2 years ago
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87 views
from Arc'teryx Latest News
Five Guys, Granite Bigwalls, Two Weeks and By Rob Pizem Photos by Andrew Burr Every time that I saw Brian "something", while climbing at Rifle, he was crushing routes, catching something with his son or belaying his wife. Ari was a friend from when we went to the Colorado School of Mines and has always been a longtime inspiration for me. Mike has been a partner through and through and was the brains behind this adventure. Andy, well he just always wants to go on these trips and take incriminating ...
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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93 views
