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Antarctica 2011: Milestones

Image from Google This past Wednesday, which marked the 100th anniversary of Amundsen first reaching the South Pole, was a major milestone in the 2011 Antarctic season. For several teams, it was the end point of their expeditions, as they had hoped to make it to the Pole in time for the celebration. For other skiers, it was a day to reflect, take stock of their progress, and consider all of the brave men and women who had traveled this route before them. For one team, the Antarctic 1911-2011 squad, Wednesday was most ...


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 3

Image from Google The Amphu Lapcha A quick and cold fair well was given to Baruntse base camp as we got underway for Chukhung. This was expected to be a 12 hour day which would be a shock to the system after trekking for 6 hours at most on the walk in. Walking most of the way with Debbie and Gordon, we all doubted our ability to get over the Amphu Lapcha; however the prospect of failing wasn’t too great as the Amphu Lapcha was the only reasonable way out of the valley other than a helicopter… our time would come for ...


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 2

Image from Google Arriving at Baruntse Baruntse Base Camp The arrival at Baruntse was impressive one, as BC, the moraine, and the towering Southwest face of Baruntse opened out in front of us. This was our home for the next 10 days. During the rest of this day and the next, the first rest days we had had for 17 days, we got straight down to business. We only had a scheduled 10 days on the mountain so every day counted. The two days were spent organising piles and many barrels of food, equipment for high on the mountain, and


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 1

Image from Google Introduction This blog is to mark the expedition to climb Mera Peak and Baruntse and all the events that subsequently unfolded. Since making a crazy return from the Himalayas on the 17 th November, the last few weeks have been nothing short of hectic. I have struggled to completely piece this blog together, since how do explain the euphoria of reaching a summit such as Baruntse, or even Mera Peak and the Amphu Labtsa, when I can’t totally understand the feelings myself. Ironically, I found writing the


Search For Missing Annapurna Climbers Called Off

Image from Google Explorers Web is reporting that search parties on Annapurna called off their efforts to find three missing Korean climbers on Friday after finding no trace of the men.Park Young Seok, Dong-Min Shin and Gi-Seok Gang all went missing a few weeks back after they made an attempt to summit the 8091 meter (26,545 ft) peak late in the Fall season. The last anyone heard from them was on October 18th, when they radioed their Base Camp to let their support team know that they were turning back after encountering ...


Himalaya Fall 2011: Annapurna Update

Image from Google There isn't a whole lot of news from Annapurna yet regarding the Korean team that ran into problems on that mountain while making an ascent yesterday. ExWeb has posted an update to their story that does offer a few more clues however, and it isn't sounding good. That last we heard from the team of Park Young Seok , Dong-Min Shin and Gi-Seok Gang they were heading up the mountain and hoping to make a summit bid today. It is believed that they ran into bad weather however and decided to descend instead, but


Euphoria, Set Back and a Quantum of Solace

October 2011 Expedition to Kyzyl Asker, Himalaya, September 2011 After my last two previous failed expedition attempts with Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger to the "Red Soldier", the 5842 meter high Mount Kyzyl Asker , in late fall of 2010, I knew I'd go back to try again. I traveled for the second time to the remote mountain range Kookshal Too, of Thien Shan, in Kyrgyzstan. Our goal: to ascend the South-East face of Mount Kyzyl Asker. Tried by many alpinists, without a successful ascent so far. I would


7/16-17 Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshop

Image from Google The guides from this past weekend's Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue Workshop returned late last night from the Matanuska Glacier and are unpacking gear and debriefing today. This was a two-day introductory workshop that provides instruction on climbing techniques and safety systems necessary for safe glacier travel. The workshop covers knots, harnesses, cramponing, self-arrest positions, building protection and anchors, fixed-line ascension, and crevasse rescue. Students enjoyed practicing crevasse fall


Wounded Warrior Denali Expedition Prep

Image from Google Gerard, and tales of airplanes driving into crevasses in Antarctica. Hearsay? Maybe. Colby with Tyler, Vic, and Justin, enjoying the sunshine. Captain Dave Olson and Evan, preparing their stomachs for a long day. "You know, I could have been doing anything else for three weeks - golfing, sailing..." Dave muses. "Massages!" guide Alex adds. I wonder what 17-year-old Evan added to that list. But instead father and son are going to Denali. Not a bad option in my book. AMS Headquarters has been busy the last


Expedition Behaviour: The Finer Points

I found this the other day and thought it applied well to our Broad Peak trip. We'd already agreed as a team that $20 is going into the DEC fund for every time somebody has a row but maybe it should be extended to breaking the rules... Original Credit, Howard Tomb: http://recparks.asp.radford.edu/faculty/behavior.htm Expedition Behavior The Finer Points Howard Tomb A good expedition team is like a powerful, well-oiled, finely tuned marriage. Members cook meals together, carry burdens together, face ...