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Injury Update

Image from Google A little over a week ago, I sustained a season ending ankle injury while climbing on pitch 15 of the Dawn Wall project on El Cap. There's not much more to say than that. I'm extremely disappointed to not be on the wall right now, pursuing this dream project and supporting Tommy. The injury occurred while attempting the 8 foot sideways dyno on pitch 15. On my first attempt of the season, I threw with everything I had, hoping to stick the move with the muscle memory from last year. I made good contact with


Joey Kinder joins the Bad girls club

Bouldering in South Africa clearly hasn't done any damage to Joey Kinder's route climbing form. Quite the opposite in fact, as he has made the 3rd ascent, after Matty Hong and Jonathan Siegrist, of Bad girls club, ~9a, a route at Rifle, Colorado, which he bolted himself and then left as an open project. Source: Climbing Narc. Joe Kinder is sponsored by , , , , , , and


Himalaya Fall 2011: Early Summit Bids Soon

Image from Google For the most part, the weather across the Himalaya has remained good so far this season and as a result, teams have been making good progress. This past weekend was spent acclimatizing for most, and now climbers are back in Base Camp on their respective mountains. Everything seems to be going as scheduled thus far, and some teams are already talking summit bids. The joint squad of Himex and AlpenGlow are back in BC on Manaslu following three nights stay in Camp 2. Their Sherpa teams have now fixed lines


Earthquake Shakes The Himalaya

Image from Google A strong 6.9-magnatude earthquake hit the Himalaya last night, causing damage, injuries, and even deaths across India, Nepal, and Tibet. News reports indicate that 50 fatalities have already been counted, although that number is expected to rise as more information is collected. The earthquake's epicenter was located in India's Sikkim state, which falls along the border of Nepal and Tibet. The rumblings were felt as far away as Bangladesh and Kathmandu, where residents scrambled to exit homes and other ...


Petzl Grigri 2 Recalled For Failure of Braking System

Yep, that might be a problem. Petzls second generation of its very cool belay device, the Grigri 2, is being recalled due to the possibility of damage to its braking system, potentially leading to uncontrolled descents. Unlike a traditional belay device, which is a manual system, the Grigri moderates travel of your climbing rope through [...]


Solo Sailing Update: Laura Dekker Reaches Bora Bora

Image from Google 15-year old solo circumnavigator Laura Dekker reached another milestone on her round-the-world journey over the weekend, sailing into Bora Bora in the South Pacific. Her arrival in that island paradise puts her a little more than halfway across the Pacific Ocean. When we last checked in with Laura back in April, she was getting ready to pass through the Panama Canal and challenge the sometimes turbulent waters of the Pacific Ocean. Fortunately for her, the seas have mostly been kind to Laura, who has made


North Pole 2011: Trouble At Barneo

Image from Google So just how bad is it in the Arctic this season? We already knew that all the explorers traveling to the North Pole from the Canadian side of the ice called off their expeditions due to the extremely bad weather, but it seemed that for the most part it would be business as usual at the Barneo Ice Station. That doesn't seem to be the case however, as ExWeb is reporting that the runway at the temporary base has cracked and broken under the weight of a landing plane. As I reported earlier this week, the ...


La Capelle - French Bouldering Venue - Banned

Image from Google The excellent bouldering area close to the village of La Capelle in SE France has been closed to climbers indefinitely with threat of prosecution to those who ignore this ban. The land owner was previously happy for climbers to use this unusual sandstone area for bouldering (and a few short bolted routes) but has become increasingly frustrated at the damage caused...


May be spared the knife?

The consultant reckons I have an internal oblique tear but the damage is in the muscle belly or MT junction, so I may yet be spared surgery. Good news, although I’m not 100% convinced he’s right. For now at least it’s an all clear to try some winter climbing and see how I get on. Meanwhile I still feel good in training, although cabin fever is reaching breaking point. It’s amazing how daily exposure to the outdoors and empty spaces becomes so hardwired it drives you quite nuts in even the most ...


October 21, 2010

Image from Google The aftermath of Alex It was a wet summer in the Potrero and a fair amount of damage was caused by Alex and several other big storms. And for the first time in the 20 years Ive been here a substantial amount of water has been running through the normally dry arroyo. New Route Last [...]