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Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 1

Image from Google Introduction This blog is to mark the expedition to climb Mera Peak and Baruntse and all the events that subsequently unfolded. Since making a crazy return from the Himalayas on the 17 th November, the last few weeks have been nothing short of hectic. I have struggled to completely piece this blog together, since how do explain the euphoria of reaching a summit such as Baruntse, or even Mera Peak and the Amphu Labtsa, when I can’t totally understand the feelings myself. Ironically, I found writing the


Himalaya Fall 2011: Summits To End The Season

Image from Google The Fall 2011 Himalaya climbing season is quickly coming to an end as climbers finish their expeditions. Some are already heading home, while others are still coming down the mountain, but the last few days have seen a flurry of summits on several peaks. On Manaslu, Himex has pust 46(!) people on top in the past two days, which is an astounding number. Their dispatch claims that is about 10% of the total number of people who have actually climbed the mountain since it was first summited back in 1956. ...


Himalaya Fall 2011: Summits On Makalu and Cho Oyu!

Image from Google This past weekend saw continued good weather in the Himalaya, which allowed some teams to summit while others were stymied by deep snow. Now, as the new week begins, some climbers are in place to make a last ditch summit bid, while others are packing up and heading home. On Friday, ExWeb reported that the Polish team ofArtur Hajzer, Tomasz Wolfart and Maciej Stanczak successfully topped out on Makalu after a long, and tough ascent. The three experienced climbers struggled on the way down however, and were


Himalaya Fall 2011: New Summit Bids Underway!

Image from Google Extremely bad weather shutdown all summit bids last weekend, but the new week brought clear skies and generally good conditions. That has also brought on a new round of summit bids, with most teams now starting to move up their respective mountains, with an eye on topping out this weekend. They're also in a race against time, as the jet stream begins to move over the region. Yesterday we received word from Manaslu that the Altitude Junkies and Himex Sherpa teams were joining forces to dig out the fixed ...


Rare and wonderful

Image from Google Following my route on the Plan almost 2 months ago (?) I developed a nerve pain in my left hand - plunger's palm perhaps? from so much plodding through deep snow on the midi plan traverse. As a result I haven't been able to climb since then. That is until this Wednesday when Jon and I made the lengthy day trip to Lleyn Penninsula to climb the 9 pitch 'mountain by the sea' Avernus. It gets the grade HVS 4c but mild XS might be more appropriate as it's a 50/50 mix of rock and veg, with much of the veg being


mild and windy+

We're having very mild windy conditions generally with a high of plus 6.4 degrees C on the summit of Cairngorm. The snowpack surface is soft and thawing but cooler snow is being maintained at depth within the snowpack. A few people were seen travelling on snow shoes and skis in the Corries today, otherwise its still hard going underfoot in the deep snow.


Still snowing!

Graupel grains deep in the snowpack- a weak layer . Low down the snowpack is slowly improving - deep snow throughout area


My new ride , maaan, by Stevie Speed Haston

So when the snow was high and joy was soaring, I realized what I needed to hit warp factor 5 was an old fashioned board the kind that aren’t made anymore cos everybody is too lazy. Lots of good designs in gear are shelved only too be replaced by shite that sells, no matter that it only does a reasonable job and not an excellent one, that’s why you get salopettes with 15 zips but you can’t actually walk in. In deep snow you need a long board, don’t let the makers tell you anything else. And it goes


Blind Hiker Preps For Continental Divide Trail

This was my story over at Gadling.com this morning, but definitely worth sharing here as well. The current issue of Expedition News reports that blind hiker Trevor Thomas will attempt to thru-hike the entire length of the Continental Divide Trail , covering more than 3100 miles (5000km) from the Canadian border south to the Mexican border. The trek is set to begin in June, when Thomas will set out with three companions who will assist him through some of the more challenging, harder to navigate, sections


Gear Box: Keen Summit County Winter Boots

Living in Austin, Texas I don't have the need for snow boots very often. In fact, up until a week and a half ago, I hadn't even owned a pair since I moved here from Iowa more than five years ago. But when I received an invitation to visit Yellowstone in the winter, I knew I'd need good boots to keep my feet warm and dry while spending the days playing in the snow. As usual, I turned to the Keen catalog of footwear to see what they had on offer, and ended up going with a pair of Summit County Boots . A ...