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Through the whole move

I’ve just spent the week staying with family in Glasgow and visiting the fantastic new TCA bouldering centre as often as muscles allow. It’s obviously a bit different from most bouldering facilities, being the biggest in the UK, and this brings many new benefits for training, as well as some new ptifalls. Some observations on these: The first observation I made which was very heartening, was the notable absence of people complaining about being too short, or the moves being too reachy. Obviously, part


Explorers Club Follow-Up: Clarification On Yesterday's Story

Yesterday I posted another story in the ongoing saga of the internal disputes that are taking place inside the Explorers Club , the 108 year old institution that has been at the forefront of exploration and adventure since its founding. In the story I quoted a New York Post article which stated that EC member Josh Bernstein , who also happens to be on the Club's Board of Directors, was "censured and fined" because he accepted tickets to the Club's annual Patron's Dinner from the event's sponsor, Rolex .


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 1

Image from Google Introduction This blog is to mark the expedition to climb Mera Peak and Baruntse and all the events that subsequently unfolded. Since making a crazy return from the Himalayas on the 17 th November, the last few weeks have been nothing short of hectic. I have struggled to completely piece this blog together, since how do explain the euphoria of reaching a summit such as Baruntse, or even Mera Peak and the Amphu Labtsa, when I can’t totally understand the feelings myself. Ironically, I found writing the


Trad climbing’s survival in a material world, by Stevie umpayed Haston.

Trad climbing’s survival in a material world, by Stevie umpayed Haston. Trad climbing is certainly doomed from what I have seen lately, the once and only way to climb is now just a circus side show! The free climbing ethic grew very slowly over many years until it became established in its proper form in the 1970s, there were many fight arguments and discussions along the way. There were also great climbers and some great impassioned ascents that showed that it was all possible. Out of the many examples


Coaching observations

I’m just back from various coaching sessions around the UK. After a little break from coaching over the summer, I’ve come to it with fresh eyes after digesting a lot of variety in watching and doing climbs of many different types. It’s amazing how your perspective widens. There are always some patterns to observe. Older climbers who have been going 10-20 years don’t go for the holds with nearly the same determination as the young angry lads. The young angry lads are too busy going for the (hand)


GROUPS WE SUPPORT: Save Our Canyons

In this new series of monthly posts in the Journal, we'll be highlighting the support we provide to grassroots conservation and access-focused nonprofit groups—the people that help make a difference in the mountain, canyon and crag environments that ...


Delegates Selected for BMC Winter Meet in Scotland

Image from Google The American Alpine Clubs BMC Winter Meet Selection Committee selected its delegates for the upcoming Winter Meet and it must be said that it was difficult. The last meet—the BMC’s Summer Meet in Wales—was an easy choice, as only a couple of people applied (by the way, thanks Jay Hack, for the write up from the BMC Summer Meet). But this time, the Club got a lot more applicants, and they were all really well-qualified, in the arena of technical climbing (important when traveling to Scotland in the


Climb For Change Article

Image from Google 21-year old tackles Baruntse and Everest for clean water and climate change Article featured on Climb For Change: http://www.climbforchange.com/blog/2011-10-02/21-year-old-tackles-baruntse-and-everest-clean-water-and-climate-change While many 21-year old guys are in the process of figuring out where they’re going in life, here’s a young man who has figured out his direction – up! Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton, is aiming to become one of the youngest Britons to climb the highest mountain on earth. And


Peak Lenin Expedition 2011

Keywords:
Dave.P, climbing, Dave, Wesley, days, Ian, ABC, One, back, BC

Image from Google Peak Lenin It’s now the beginning of September and after a highly eventful and emotional past 4 weeks, I have another long overdue blog to write, whilst I try my upmost to avoid getting burnt in this scorcher of a British summer. It does seem I have been slightly unlucky with the weather, missing the ‘real’ summer this April with a long revision period, however my luck changed during late July and early August as I ventured to Kyrgyzstan, a country famous for..?! What followed was the trip of a ...


Adam Campbell Knee Knacker Race Report

Keywords:
Aaron, Races, lie, Ollie, back, win, trail, chase, fuck, split

Image from Google Four of us are standing around, knee deep in the chilly northern Pacific Ocean, trying desperately to offset and numb the pain in our legs. We can barely feel the crushed rocks and shells under our feet. Salt is crusted on our faces and jerseys, we all look a dazed, squinting into the sun thats bathing the cove, as our bodies struggle to come back into balance. Were mumbling inanely, wrestling with our incoherent and tired thoughts, but happy to no longer be trapped in our internal monologue. We chatter