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Everest's West Ridge, World Water Day, and Why Am I Here?

Image from Google Tom Hornbein on the West Ridge, 1963 I'm about to head out the door on my seventh Everest expedition, this time climbing in the historic footsteps of Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld up the West Ridge, retracing their route from...


Long Hope night at RGS in London Feb 8th

Paul Diffley captures the action from an airy filming position on the Longhope route. Photo: Lukasz Warzecha On February 8th, myself, Andy Turner and filmmaker Paul Diffley will be speaking at the Royal Geographical Society in London about the Longhope route. Mountain Equipment and Gore-Tex have helped us arrange an evening of entertainment at the RGS to share with you what was pretty memorable adventure for us, both in terms of the climbers involved in attempting to climb this cliff over 40 years, and in


Marin Roller Coaster

I'm sitting naked in the front seat of my car, it's dark outside and I can hear the rain rasping at the roof of the vehicle. The car smells musky and the heater is blasting my exposed skin with warm canned air. I look over at the mound of muddy shoes littering the passenger side foot cavity of the car, assessing my quiver and the state of my legs, trying to figure out what sort of support I feel like. My suit pants and tie are in a crumpled heap on the passenger seat. It's the main reason I buy iron free


Alpinist Redpoints Cover Misses Onsight

Image from Google S eptember 9, 2011 The staff has proofread and signed off on the cover for Alpinist 36. Art Director Michael Lorenz opens a file, hot keys "A" to change his cursor into a pointer tool and saves the files as a printable PDF. He uploads the file to the printer and continues work on the three magazines all due within the next forty-eight hours. September 16, 2011 12:15 p.m. "[expletive deleted]" - Michael Kennedy, Editor-in-Chief "[expletive deleted]" - Adam Howard, Editorial Director "[EXPLETIVE DELETED]" -


TCA Glasgow opening on Friday

Image from Google The Climbing Academy has now arrived in Glasgow and will open it's doors at 12noon this Friday 21st October.


Good Work

Image from Google Had a bit of a busy stint there with various bits of cool work. First up was two days of setting routes at the Ice Factor. It was a lot of graft for the team of us and stressful for the staff as the ice wall had melted after a client burst a pipe that was part of the cooling system with his axe. We got it all set though and by the sounds of it it was a successful day as this years STS kicked off. Trying to figure out a good finals route On Saturday morning it was off to the Peak district to work for ...


Himalaya Fall 2011: Summit Bids Begin Today!

Image from Google Earlier in the week I posted an update on the 2011 fall Himalaya season in which I noted that many teams were now in their respective base camps, resting, and keeping an eye on the weather. Most had completed their acclimatization rotations, and were now enjoying some down time before they started their first summit attempts. Fast forward a few days, and plans are now in place to make those bids, with climbers starting to head back up their mountains as early as today. It looks like Monday or Tuesday will


Quay Climbing Centre Opens in Exeter

Image from Google Exeters first climbing wall - The Quay Climbing Centre opened its doors for the first time recently.


The sun is shining...time to work in the garden!

Image from Google Finally after two weeks of rain, the sun is back. It is a beautiful day with a crisp coolness to the air. Autumn is scratching at the door. We have five more courses this season–three mountaineering courses, a Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue workshop and our Denali Photography Workshop . There is room on all but the upcoming 12 day mountaineering course. Travis and Erin improving the AMS garden. In the meantime, our intern Erin and AMS scholarship student, Travis are working to put in a new garden. It


Outdoor Retailer 2011

Image from Google For only the second time in my life, I got up too early Saturday morning and caught a plane (which left two hours late for a one hour flight)from Denver to Salt Lake City. A quick bus ride into town (no expense account for a taxi) left me blinking in the bright sun outside the Salt Palace, a sprawling building surrounded by vendor tents and athletic people on cell phones. With no time to waste, I picked up my media badge and strode in, more or less beelining it to the climbing ghetto in the farthest corner