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World Climbing - Rock Odyssey, by Simon Carter

2009 was our first foray to the unknown delights of Vietnam and its limestone towers in Ha Long Bay. (You can find our 2009 trip reports and video here ). We had a stack of fun and I was particularly impressed by one limestone tower which had just two routes ( The Face 7b+ and License to Climb 7b). It was the most impressive and striking towers I'd seen in a bay which has over 2,000 limestone towers. After we left, I kept in the back of my mind the dream of establishing an extension to License to Climb ...


Silbergeier for Nina Caprez, congratulations !

After her boyfriend Cedric Lachat, also Nina Caprez has repeated her "dream line": Silbergeier . " ... laughing when snowflakes started to fall on to the holds …


2009-12-13 17:43:00

Sorry for the lack of posts lately. While I was in Yosemite working on Mescalito with Tommy, all of our updates went to the Black Diamond website. You can check out all the dispatches we sent in here: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/bd-athletes-kevin-jorgeson-and-tommy-caldwell-attempt-a-new-free-route-on-el-capitandispatch-5 After climbing super technical, dead vertical granite for two months, I'm working on getting my steep bouldering power back. After Christmas, I'm going to


Canon's extended dream

Planet Mountain Italian Grandmaster, Luca "Canon" Zardini, has done the FA of La linea dei Sogni (The dream line), 8c+, a 15m vertical extension to the legendary Sogni di gloria (Dreams of glory), 8b+, at Erto, Italy. The latter was done back in 1987 by Gerhard Hörhager: "In December 1987 I did a route in Erto Italy which people have now upgraded to 8c. (Grades are more moderate now) I think if somebody opened this route now, they could grade it 8c, (soft). When I made the first ascent I graded it 8b+,