from gravsports
The discussion on "Ice climbing is NOT rock climbing" has generally been useful; I learned a few things for sure, and I appreciate Jeff (the videographer) and the guys in the video taking it all well. I've talked to Jeff and the climbers, they're good people. I write this blog pretty much like I talk to my friends over morning coffee, and went a little overboard in not editing my comments a little. My sincere apologies to the Fall team for that, and I look forward to getting out with them next year. Now
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from gravsports
Fall. from Jeffrey Butler on Vimeo . One of the biggest problems I see in ice climbing starts with people approaching ice climbing like they do rock climbing. That mindset is totally inappropriate, and leads to really avoidable accidents. A friend of mine recently sent me a link to a video shot Dracula, a one-pitch classic WI 4+ in New Hampshire. The leader gets pumped, struggles to get a screw in, and falls. Skip to 3: 28 to see it go bad, but the whole thing starts to go bad way before that point. I'm
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
As reported in the August 6, 2010 NewsWire , Japanese phenoms Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Katsutaka "Jumbo" Yokoyama attempted two of the most sought-after unclimbed objectives in the world of alpinism: the north ridge and north face of Latok I (7145m) in Pakistan's Karakoram. Soft snow and sketchy ice conditions thwarted both attempts; more information on their efforts is detailed below. Beginning at 1 a.m. on June 20, the trio climbed 18 pitches up the north face in a 21-hour effort. They ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from gravsports
The following is my best understanding of what actually happened on the Lama trip, and then some analysis. Anyone who wants the story so far can read this or lots of other commentary out there. Most of this writing is wrong to some degrees, including my initial post . I've spent hours emailing and on the phone with everyone involved that I could contact: David Lama, Red Bull, the guides on the trip, the film makers, Rolo, and many others. I have yet to reach anyone who was on the cleanup crew despite ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from gravsports
There's been a bunch of discussion over on rockclimbing.com about the last speed post, thought I'd post a few things that answered good questions on there: -We use a single rope not to save weight, but because it keeps the belays a lot more organized and is generally a lot faster to deal with at transitions. Using two lead ropes invariably turns into a cluster once the ropes get a little icy or the belay is hanging, especially when block leading where the leader is on the "bottom" of the stack. Add in ...
published: over 2 years ago
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from The Adventure Blog
I'm jumping back into my blogging duties, as I get back to my normal schedule at last, and I'll start things off by getting caught up on the ongoing events in the Himalaya, where teams are setting the stage for summit bids on Ama Dablam, Pumori, and more. The IMG Team has updated their blog this morning with news that the climbers have reached Camp 2, and are now in a position to make the push to the summit tomorrow, skipping their stay in C3 altogether. They say the weather remains good, and the ...
published: over 2 years ago
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from All Climbing
In whats proving to be a sad year of climbing-related deaths, the well-respected climbing author Craig Luebben died yesterday in Washington’s Cascade Range by falling ice. Ive always enjoyed his writing and this is sad loss for the climbing community. My condolences go out to the family.
Peter Beal also points us to an excellent interview [...]
published: over 2 years ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
By Dougald MacDonald / The Mountain World Will Gadd and EJ Plimley have climbed 1,000-foot Hunlen Falls in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, east of Bella Coola, British Columbia, the first ascent of Canada’s third-highest waterfall. The climb was remarkable not just for its size but also for its remote location and extreme danger from falling ice. As in: Much of the climb was in danger of collapsing. In late December, Gadd, Plimley, David Dornian, and Andrew Querner drove 15 hours from Canmore, Alberta, ...
published: over 3 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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