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Getting them in on Orkney

The soaring crack pitch of Mucklehouse Wall, E5 6a Since completing the Longhope Direct, our trip on Orkney has been light of step but heavy of leg. The team are all feeling a tad fatigued from great efforts of rigging, filming and eating a lot of cake to replace all the calories that you seem to burn here. For me it’s been a lovely slow release and realisation that the route is done and I can wake up a little more to the sights and sounds of Hoy without the blinkering weight of focus on the project that


Elk-Beaver Ultra - Canadian 50 Mile championship

In 2001, with about 6 months left in my degree, I dropped out of university, packed all my belongings into a duffel bag and a bike box, left my girlfriend behind and flew across the country to pursue my Olympic dream with the National Triathlon Centre in beautiful Victoria, British Columbia. I arrived with two of my training partners from Kingston, Ontario on a cold and rainy January night with no place to stay and no real plans about how I was going to make it work. We were met at the airport by Simon ...


Caroline Ciavaldini - E8 ground-up!

With all the commotion after the Muy Caliente/Pembroke raid, followed by Melloblocco, and finally the wonderful Quello Che Non C'e - I almost completely forgot to write about Caroline’s own amazing trad achievement... The World Cup season is on its way and so training for Caro is getting heavy, but she managed to find a little spare time to fly to England to support me. After I finished with Muy Caliente and the good weather remained, she decided it was time for her to take the lead, and have her own ...


All My Eggs In One Basket

Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-04-25 Happy Easter. This might be a time of the year that you celebrate, or a weekend the same as any other. For me there is little difference, in fact a period to avoid being away with the crowds. But I notice it by the amount of chocolate eggs that seem to come my way, not that I’m complaining! This year was a very happy Easter for many as the sun shone. Just a few years ago it was snowing at Easter! The sun is great, but not for hard climbing. It seems traditionally I


The Long Way Down from the Summit

It is a truth that reaching the summit only puts you halfway there, but its also a cultural storytelling truth that we lose interest once the climax has been reached. For those who have to turn around and make it safely home, though, challenges abound, often more than on the way up. Fatigue, emotional release [...]


Hungry for Rock on Les Droites

Patrick Pessi's obsession with the north face of Les Droits on the Mont Blanc massif has culminated in the first ascent of Ecaille epique (M5/M6 A1 80 degrees/90 degrees, 1000m). As an adolescent, Pessi memorized the mountain's lines and angles from a poster in his bedroom and eventually grew up to climb the mountain's classic routes. During an ascent of the Messner Pillar, he spotted an unclimbed line that seemed to have potential. After keeping the potential line secret for fifteen years, Pessi made an


Bittersweet Climb for Koreans in Nepal

O n December 16, Koreans Hwang Gi-yong, Shin Dong-seok and Yoo Hak-jae summited Nepal's Phari Lapcha East (6017m) via a new mixed route. Celebrations of the achievement were over shadowed by the death of Hwang, who died of a while descending. It is believed he suffered a stroke. The trouble arose for Hwang on the second day, when he began showing signs of fatigue after the demanding ice portion of the climb. The following morning he complained of stomach pain, but was able to continue. Though still in ...


The Expedition Reports - 3 - The Crack

Image from Google Its time for more Expedition Reports from Chad. This time, Alex takes on one of the most disgusting routes I can imagine... So this dispatch is about a cool arch I got to climb. I’m typing it from the back of the jeep while we quest around the desert. We stopped at the Sao Paulo [sp??] Arch a few days ago while we were driving just to see it as tourists. But when we parked underneath we discovered an amazing offwidth crack that split the whole formation from one side to the other. The whole team decided


Study Finds That Altitude Sickness Common on Kilimanjaro

According to t he BBC , a new study found that nearly half of the climbers on Kilimanjaro suffered from altitude sickness, demonstrating just how dangerous a trek up the highest mountain in Africa can be. Traffic on the peak has increased in recent months thanks to a few high profile celebrity climbs, which has led to even more travelers on Kili's trails, many of which are unprepared for the challenge. Researchers camped at 4730m (15,518 feet) on the mountain for three weeks, while conducting studies of


Kiwi Yachtsman Crosses Northwest Passage In Record Time

Kiwi solo sailor Graeme Kendall, sailing the Astral Express , recently completed a crossing of the Northwest Passage, setting a new speed record in the process. It took Kendall just 12 days to complete the crossing, which came as sweet redemption after he was turned back in 2005 due to heavy ice. Traveling east to west, Kendall entered the Passage at Lancaster Sound on August 27th and sailed clear at Barrow Point on September 9th. That 12 day voyage sets the new standard for a solo sail through the ...