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Dolomites 8c - Bellavista for Luka Krajnc

Slovenian climber Luka Krajnc has made the fourth complete free ascent of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites, Italy. Luka started to work on the route at the end of June this year, but conditions in the first half of the summer season were not in his favour...


Evel Knievel

Only a few days to go until Kalymnos 2011, so time to get some training in on something steep. Frey Yule's route Evel Knievel 29/8a at Coolum was a likely target. It starts up Evil Wears No Pants 30/8a+ with a burly, 70 degree overhung, 11 move boulder to a good kneebar before cutting a traverse directly left for several bodylengths and then a transition back to "up" climbing to finish up the last three or so bolts of the route Ground Control . I'd been on the route in March this year while conditions were


Focus

Image from Google Since the fall last year I knew I was going to have to come back to climbing and try better my E7 effort. I was almost happy to leave things at this level but I knew after the accident if I wanted to lay down the demon of fear I would have to push on further than before. I didn't realise at the time how much farther this would take me. Since I got back on my feet and back to the crags my whole life has been devoted to trying to find an E8 I could potentially climb. I have trained harder than ever and ...


Consistently not good enough

Today was the third session in a row of things just not being quite right for making progress on the project. Well, really I have made progress as a subtle change of beta should help tip the balance in my favour if I can get past the crux again. But the last time I managed that was about 18 attempts ago now! I feel close to doing the move every single time. Consistency is good except when it's consistently not good enough. For a collection of reasons I’ve been a couple of percent less strong. Bad skin,


In the chair, Al Evans, by Stevie Haston

Who’s in the chair? Al Evans is in the chair. In this case the chair he designed. Who is Al Evans, well he’s not just a frou frou chair designer, he’s a great sportsman; a runner, cycle cross loon, a climber, a friend, and most of all an inspiration to me and a thousand others. I knew of Al before I met him cos I am a running nerd, I had read of him in a book called studs on the summits, if you have a copy of this book you deserve the nerds medal, with oak clusters covered in mud! Like a lot of ...


Norwegian Rock Master

Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2010-09-01 Picture - Ivo Ninov - Five Ten The Nordic countries are awesome, and the people are always super nice. This year I’ll be in Denmark twice and Norway twice, mainly for work, but way back in February I was invited to take part in the Norwegian Rock Masters Competition. So my level of psyche has varied a lot! Of course I was keen, it’s Norway , it’ll be great, but hang on, the wads are going, and anyway I hate comps, maybe not for me!! But it’s on real rock and ...


It's on!

Image from Google So, things are finally starting to look 'interesting' on the hill. A small window of opportunity appeared on the weather forecasts a couple of days ago, a 36 hour window to be precise. There are actually two types of weather information that we assess to find a decent summit window: the general precipitation (i.e snow and temperature) and, more importantly, the position of the jet stream. The summit of Everest lies fully in the planet's jet stream, winds so strong (118+mph), that climbers would literally


Big link in the cave complete

At Destiny’s Gate, V13 Climbing tough projects that take you a wee while is always a game of balancing stakes. The more work and effort you put in, the more progress you make. The more you drop other things and focus on just that, the faster and more consistent the progress. But at the same time, it gets ever harder not to be become attached to success on it as you sense it getting close. And as you stretch your hand further, the potential for backfire gets ever larger. In my favour, a fortnight of cold


Walking Away

Image from Google I received a call from a friend of many years the other day and they were going on about me being the only one of our old team of mates who isn't yet settled down into relationship, steady career etc and that I'm 31 and simply renting a room to allow me to go climbing. They also stated that I'm "a ruthless, self-centered and heartless b*****d". I guess sometimes I am but wouldn't have been able to sacrifice what I have without being these things. There are things I miss a lot like nights out with the lads.


9b ACCOMODATIONS sharing as real off line interactions between climbers

Yes, 9b network is the specific "Couch" surfing site for world CLIMBERS ! Couchsurfing ? Generally speaking, is sharing Your accomodation with other travellers and gaining chances they will return You the favour. To understand how it works, try t