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French Succesfully Traverse Cordillera Darwin

This fall a French military team spent a month navigating the Cordillera Darwin in Chilean Tierra del Fuego. Lionel Albrieux, Sebastien Bohin, Didier Jourdain, Sebastien Ratel and Francois Savary, from the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM) and civilian Dimitri Munoz spent thirty days traversing the length of this remote range. Though not a technically difficult feat in a pure climbing sense, the Cordillera Darwin's remoteness and horrendous weather provided more than an adequate challenge to the


January 2012

Image from Google Welcome to the long dark days of winter. The snow finally melted off here in Boulder and bouldering outside is once more an option. Not that I have been doing much of that. A couple of weeks off due to weather and various illnesses and suddenly my Christmas break was over. Before Christmas, I felt as though my training was going quite well and now I am trying to recover that standard, little by little. I have very nice simple but effective training set-up in my basement which has been very helpful in ...


Plastic power

With Scotland being hammered by the usual January gales and rain, I’ve been directing my climbing attentions over Christmas to a sustained attack on the fantastic TCA bouldering centre in Glasgow. I climbed a mountain of fantastic problems and definitely feel stronger for it, especially on big moves. There’s a lot of climbing space there and there are no shortage of leaps and jumps between the holds (some performance related comments on this over on my other blog ). An uninterrupted spell of good ...


Through the whole move

I’ve just spent the week staying with family in Glasgow and visiting the fantastic new TCA bouldering centre as often as muscles allow. It’s obviously a bit different from most bouldering facilities, being the biggest in the UK, and this brings many new benefits for training, as well as some new ptifalls. Some observations on these: The first observation I made which was very heartening, was the notable absence of people complaining about being too short, or the moves being too reachy. Obviously, part


Training the ability to try

If you see people in action during training (it’s easiest to observe in a traditional weights/cardio gym), it’s not hard to notice that theres a massive difference between the majority who are having a ‘light’ session to say the least, and the much smaller proportion who are really working their bodies hard. As an aside, If you do see those people in the gym who look like they aren’t trying - don’t scoff inwardly (or outwardly!) at them - not everyone goes to the gym to work hard. Some people


Baruntse & Mera Peak Expedition 2011 Part 3

Image from Google The Amphu Lapcha A quick and cold fair well was given to Baruntse base camp as we got underway for Chukhung. This was expected to be a 12 hour day which would be a shock to the system after trekking for 6 hours at most on the walk in. Walking most of the way with Debbie and Gordon, we all doubted our ability to get over the Amphu Lapcha; however the prospect of failing wasn’t too great as the Amphu Lapcha was the only reasonable way out of the valley other than a helicopter… our time would come for ...


Marin Roller Coaster

I'm sitting naked in the front seat of my car, it's dark outside and I can hear the rain rasping at the roof of the vehicle. The car smells musky and the heater is blasting my exposed skin with warm canned air. I look over at the mound of muddy shoes littering the passenger side foot cavity of the car, assessing my quiver and the state of my legs, trying to figure out what sort of support I feel like. My suit pants and tie are in a crumpled heap on the passenger seat. It's the main reason I buy iron free


The need to pull hard

A week of coaching abroad last week marked the end of a crazy few months of various work projects. Last week was very strange, going climbing every day and having great days but only on easy routes. I was absolutely stir crazy on the way home to pull hard on some small holds again. The need to take things to extremes seems to be a deep set part of human nature, and not just ego driven need to stand out from a crowd. Climbing at a relaxed pace without battling my way up routes to the last just doesn’t ...


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 10 (Kalydna, Iannis & Spartacus)

Keywords:
Bo, SPARTACUS, yo, Susy, nuts, Owen, hangers, anchors, 7b, Andy

Day seven of climbing. Perhaps the highlight day so far? I don't know, you be the judge. We started with a group vote on where we wanted to go for the final four climbing days of the trip. Plans were made, guidebooks were consulted, and dates were made with dogs that had been left behind at various cliffs to date. KALYDNA If you were playing along at home you know we went to Kalydna on day two . You'll also know that Owen, Andy and Susy found a friend for life in the 30m Nickel which is a 7a+ pitch which


Banyangs Cave

Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-10-28 Petzl Rock Trip 2011. Getu valley. There must be more limestone here than the whole of the UK put together! But the really crazy thing is the variation in styles. There just seems to be everything plus more other styles you didn’t know existed. The world of slopers was totally crazy, but pretty close to on-sight hell, certainly for me anyway. And also not red-point heaven either requiring large biceps and shoulders that God forgot to give me. Photo - John Evans. ...