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Meeting the Queen

On Fat Boy Slim VI, 6, Ben Nevis the other day How do I winter climb again? After doing Anubis a couple of years ago I took a bit of a break from winter climbing. That route was a really nice piece of climbing and was very satisfying to climb. It was hard to find something good enough to follow it. I was also really missing bouldering and felt I hard to get some strength base together for climbing the Longhope. Last season I tried a couple of new routes that were maybe too hard, and then winter was over


Norwegians Climb New Routes on Nafees Cap

Image from Google In September 2011, a six-man Norwegian team established two new routes on Nafees Cap, a 900-meter spire on the south side of K7 in Pakistan's Hushe Region. Sigurd Felde, Ole Ivar Lied, Henki Flatlandsmo and Odd-Roar Wiik spent twenty days putting up a twenty-two pitch route (A2/A3) while Jarle Kalland and Sindre Saether created a twenty pitch route (5.11d, A2) in six days alongside their teammates. Nafees Cap was first climbed by a Belgian-Polish team of Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Adam Pustelnik and ...


Off To The Rafting World Championships in Costa Rica!

Image from Google As I write this, I'm finishing up preparation to leave for Costa Rica today where I'll be attending the World Rafting Championship . The event kicked off this morning and races begin tomorrow, with teams from 35 different countries on hand to take part in a head-to-head competition that should be a lot of fun to watch. The event is being held inTurrialba, which is widely considered one of the top rafting destinations in the world. I'm told that the town is nestled snugly into the jungle, and the ...


Russians Siege Trango, Put Up New Route

Image from Google Last month, a four-man Russian team established a new route on the northwest face of Pakistan's Trango Tower (6251m). No Fear (VII 6B+ A3, 1120m) put up by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergey Nilov, Viktor Volodin and Alexander Yurkin, is the first largely independent route established in the Trango Group in more than a decade. Trango's northwest face is host to one other established route: Insumisioa (VI A3+ 6A), a 1995 creation of Basque climbers Antonio Aqueretta, Fermin Izco and Mikel Zabalza. The route's name


Insight

Image from Google The nights were a cold and uncomfortable time during my last visit, partly due to mistakenly bringing only a sleeping bag liner rather than a full bag, but mostly just because it was f@%king cold for August! Not this time however - shivers were replaced with sweats, it was uncomfortably obvious we were in the midst of a little heat wave. Chilly times during my first visit (Photo Riky Felderer) Today was supposed to be the first attempt at the “big push” but motivation was not super high as I rolled out


Back to The Park

Image from Google After several weeks of hiking into Evans Area A, I was getting the approach dialed but getting less and less climbing actually done as the temperatures on the Front Range crept higher. The webcam at RMNP seemed to show that the snow was beginning to recede in earnest so I began heading to the Park instead. The snow was mostly gone where it mattered but a huge mini-glacier obscured most of the boulders east of the Gobot sector. Thus the Warm-up Boulders, The Centaur Boulder, Bush Pilot and European Human


Big, Scary, Monsters

Image from Google The 4th pitch roof of La Cardaire The next project is underway, and has already begun gathering speed. I have started to become more and more intrigued by the world of hard multi-pitch and big walls and over the last few months have started to make my first visits to this world. The eventual idea is to create something very long, very hard, and very scary, but this final phase is still quite a long way off in the future. Now is the time to begin developing the necessary skills, by attempting and repeating


Flagstaff again

Image from Google Over the past week I've spent 3 quick(ish) sessions up on Flagstaff, mainly since it's only about 15 minutes from my apartment, super convenient. My first visit last week was spent repeating some moderates , but I didn't really get on anything too hard. Then, a few days ago I went back and climbed a few harder problems which you can see in the video below. Flagstaff 2 from Doug Lipinski on Vimeo . For anyone that's wondering, Hagan's Wall climbs just as well now as it did before breaking in January. The


Nina Caprez at Hotel Supramonte

Image from Google Hotel Supramonte by Nina Caprez My first visit to this unbelievable multipitch tour was in April as my partner Cédric Lachat and I drove spontaneously to Sardegna, Italy, to climb this famous route. Hotel Supramonte has been the most difficult route in Italy for many years. The high rated difficult grades (7b+, 7c, 8b, 8a+, 8a+/8b, 7c, 7a, 7b+, 7b+, 7b+, 6b) and ongoing hard pitches makes this route to an absolute test peace. On the first day, Cédric tried an on-sight and unfortunately fell in the last


The first 2 visits of Adam Ondra in Lombardia region (Lecco & Bergamo) - Le prime 2 visite di Adam Ondra in Lombardia (Lecco & Bergamo)

Image from Google Written on March 26, 2009 in OPEN AIR: Adam Ondra MAGAZINE. Scritto il 26 marzo 2009 in OPEN AIR: Adam Ondra MAGAZINE. ACT 1 - FIRST VISIT (from 20 to 22 of march, 2009) " If we are slow, we'll arrive at 8. If we are fast at 5 o'clock. " Wow ! I can't bel