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Winter Climb Update: More Expeditions Head To Pakistan

Image from Google The Russian team attempting to climb K2 this winter will soon be joined in the Karakoram by a few other teams who are setting their sights on other big peaks in Pakistan. All told, there will soon be two teams on Gasherbrum I and two others on Nanga Parbat, all of whom will be attempting to notch first winter ascents on those mountains. A Polish squad led by Artur Hajzer is amongst those hoping to top out on GI this season. They team is now en route to the mountain, where they expect winds to be in excess


Winter Climb Updates: Russians In K2 BC, Lonnie To High Camp

Image from Google While I was away enjoying a break for the holidays, I still managed to keep a close eye on the two major winter climbs that I've been following this season. Both are impressive expeditions to say the least, and both are now in full swing, as winter is underway in ernest. The Russian team that has set its sights on climbing K2 this winter started working the route today and now have fixed the lines up to 5600 meters (18,372 ft). That means they still have a LONG way to go, but it is a solid start to their


Outside To Premiere Cold Online

Image from Google The mountaineering film Cold has been getting a lot of positive buzz lately, picking up awards at various festivals and earning climber/filmmaker Cory Richards recognition as one of Nat Geo's Adventurers of the Year . The film follows Richards, along with climbers Simone Moro and Dennis Urubko, as they make the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, an 8035 meter (26,362 ft) peak located in Pakistan, hence the title "Cold." Now, the film is set to make its online debut thanks to Outside Magazine . Tomorrow


Erhard Loretan Obituary

Image from Google Erhard Loretan died while guiding in the Bernese Alps of his homeland, Switzerland, on April 28. Throughout his climbing career Loretan has been at the forefront of hard ascents in light and fast alpine style. The accident occurred on his 52nd birthday at around 3800m up the summit ridge of Grunhorn (4043m). Loretan and his partner fell some 200 meters. Weather inhibited immediate rescue by air delaying the rescue until a team could ski into the area. Rescuers found Loretan dead and his client in serious


New Eiger Speed Record

Image from Google News Flash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist will post a story in detail when more information becomes available.—Ed Twenty seven year old Dani Arnold climbed the north face of the Eiger in 2 hours and 28 minutes on Wednesday, April 21, 2011. This beats the previous speed record for the face set by Ueli Steck in 2008 by twenty minutes. Arnold, a Swiss national, set his speed record via the Heckmair route. Alpinist.com readers will be familiar


In and Out on Huntington

Image from Google In a 23 hour push starting early March 19, Jason Stuckey and John Frieh made the second winter ascent of Mt Huntington in the Alaska Range (12,240'). The pair arrived on the Tokositna Glacier on March 18, and climbed the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk: V 85 degrees, 3,250'). They returned to camp by 5am on the 20th, and were picked up four hours later. All told the pair spent less than 48 hours in the range. "Smash and Grab." The first winter ascent of Huntington was performed on March 12, 2007 in a 15


Pressknödel, first winter ascent by Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli

Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli ahve carried out the first winter ascent of Pressknödel (7c, 400m) on Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.


Climbers Make First Winter Ascent of Gasherbrum II

Image from Google Another major event in the world of mountaineering went down while I was away in Africa, as climbers Simone Moro, Denis Urubko andCory Richards completed the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, the 13th highest peak in the world. The team had been working the mountain for several weeks, but once prepared, they completed the climb in just three days. The trio finished their summit push on February 2nd, reaching the top of the 8035 meter (26,363 ft) mountain. While climbing any Himalayan peak in the winter


Pizzo della Pieve, first winter solo by Ivo Ferrari

On 25 January 2011 Ivo Ferrari carried out the first winter ascent of the Fasana Face of Pizzo della Pieve (Grigne) via the Via Fasana.


First Winter Ascent of an 8000m Peak in Pakistan

Image from Google In a three-day push from base camp, Simone Moro, Cory Richards and Denis Urubko completed the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II. On February 2 the team reached the summit of Gasherbrum II (8035m) in the remote Karakoram Range in northwest Pakistan. "It has been very hard, but the three of us feel well," Simone reported from the summit. The team left their 6900m camp at 3 a.m. and reached the summit around 11:30 a.m. As weather conditions continue to deteriorate, they hope to descend to Camp 2 or 1 by