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Aonach Mor

Image from Google Today Kenny and I changed plans last minute and had a leisurly start up to Coire an Lochain on Aonach Mor. As Kenny is my mentor for the MIC scheme, he wanted to show me around the crag looking at different ways of getting into the crag, moving around the bottom and looking after folk on the routes. We climbed both Left Twin (III,4) and Molar Canal (III) which were both very nice routes. The ice was quite variable, most of the moist snowpack from the last few days had firmed up with the dropping ...


Through the whole move

I’ve just spent the week staying with family in Glasgow and visiting the fantastic new TCA bouldering centre as often as muscles allow. It’s obviously a bit different from most bouldering facilities, being the biggest in the UK, and this brings many new benefits for training, as well as some new ptifalls. Some observations on these: The first observation I made which was very heartening, was the notable absence of people complaining about being too short, or the moves being too reachy. Obviously, part


Training the ability to try

If you see people in action during training (it’s easiest to observe in a traditional weights/cardio gym), it’s not hard to notice that theres a massive difference between the majority who are having a ‘light’ session to say the least, and the much smaller proportion who are really working their bodies hard. As an aside, If you do see those people in the gym who look like they aren’t trying - don’t scoff inwardly (or outwardly!) at them - not everyone goes to the gym to work hard. Some people


Write A Blog Post, Win Some Gear!

Image from Google Want to win some free gear? Can you write a simple blog post? Then I have just the contest for you! The folks over at 511Tactical.com are celebrating a few additions to their line-up of gear and are giving us a chance to take some of it home. Details on the contest can be found by clicking here , but in a nutshell, they're asking all entrants to submit a 500-word blog post that falls into one of seven different topic categories. Those topics include such things as your favorite trail, highlights from a ...


Meeting the Queen

On Fat Boy Slim VI, 6, Ben Nevis the other day How do I winter climb again? After doing Anubis a couple of years ago I took a bit of a break from winter climbing. That route was a really nice piece of climbing and was very satisfying to climb. It was hard to find something good enough to follow it. I was also really missing bouldering and felt I hard to get some strength base together for climbing the Longhope. Last season I tried a couple of new routes that were maybe too hard, and then winter was over


Long Hope DVD is here!

We now have our stock of the Long Hope DVD and many of our pre-orders will have them by now. They are in the shop here and as usual we are dispatching every day in the run up to Christmas. I’ve just been signing a large pile of them for folk and if you’d like a copy signed, just ask on the checkout page. Signed copies are only available from my shop. Thanks for all the messages from those of you who have seen it. It seems it’s become your favourite climbing film very quickly which is good to know ...


Leading confidence - a worthy enemy

Recently I’ve been coaching a lot of sport climbing and spent lots of time trying to get climbers to recognise that leading confidence is placing a huge barrier in the way of improving almost any aspect of their climbing. What I’ve noticed is that climbers with leading confidence issues are desperate to avoid tackling it despite appearing quite highly motivated to make changes in most other areas of their climbing skills. Taking the first step in attacking leading confidence just feels so painful and


‘The Long Hope’ Trailer Now Online

Our new film, ‘ The Long Hope ’ is now available on DVD and HD download. The Long Hope DVD, Cover photo by Lukasz Warzecha, design by Ifan Bates We had a great time at the premiere last week, with a sold out theatre at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival. Folk seem to really enjoy it. It was great to be over hearing so many positive comments in the bar all weekend at Kendal… Not that we spent all weekend in the bar… just most of it! The Long Hope premiere, pic Lukasz Warzecha Highlights of Kendal for


STS Tooling Competition Saturday 8th October

The winners! Dennis on his way to being the only person to complete Kev Shield's tough finals route. Marianne on her way to winning the ladies competition - a strong performance which would have given her joint 2nd place in the mens! Louise making the big moves on the first half of the finals route. We always look forward to the Scottish Tooling Series round here at the Ice Factor. This time we had a full house of 60 competitors which gave a good buzz to the event without feeling crowded. Everyone tackled


Epoch Expedition: 10,000-Mile Human Powered Adventure

A few days ago I received a note from Chris Crane, a member of Team Epoch , which is about to launch new expedition that will send the four person team on a 10,000-mile long odyssey completely under their own power. Chris, and his teammates, will mix in some of our favorite activities along the way, including rowing, cycling, paddling, and hiking. The journey will begin with a row across the Atlantic Ocean as part of the Woodvale Challenge , which gets underway in early December. That race begins in the