from The Alpinist - newswire
Between July 22, 2011, and August 28, 2011, Russian/Ukrainian climbers Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya spent thirty-eight days establishing a new route, Parallelniy Mir (VI+ 6b A3), on the northwest face of Great Trango Tower (6238m). The team was recently voted the recipients the Russian Piolet d'Or, the first all-women's team to receive the award. Great Trango Tower, first climbed in 1977 by Dennis Hennek, Jim Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz is located on the
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from Mountains and Water
About a month ago, before I went on unplanned hiatus from writing this blog, I read a very interesting commentary at Kairn.com on the Olympics and climbing. There has been a consistent push in recent years for the inclusion of competition climbing in the Olympics, perhaps in part because the potential resulting higher profile could bring bigger sponsors on board for events such as the World Cup. Here are some thoughts translated from the French, originally authored by Jean Pierre Banville: " Elleva y ...
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from Climber's Blog
Black Diamond athlete Sonnie Trotter is in Yosemite with fellow Canadian Will Stanhope, trying to make the second ascent of Leo Houlding's The Prophet (VI 5.14 R) on El Cap's southeast face. Below is the email he sent us last night (November 1) along w...
published: 6 months ago
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from Climber's Blog
Black Diamond athlete Tommy Caldwell has devoted a large chunk of the last three years to attempting a futuristic free climb on Yosemite's El Capitan, a route peppered with numerous 5.14 to 5.14+ pitches that would place as unquestionably the hardest b...
published: 7 months ago
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from Ian Parnell Photography
Having managed to get a precious slot of free time I'd hoped to go to the Alps but somehow despite planning 4 months in advance I failed to convince anyone to commit to a climb with me! But never fear there are adventures aplenty within our own shores. So I'm halfway through a two-part 'UK choss -o dyssey'. For Part One I linked up with my fellow Climb editor Dave Pickford. First for a 1000ft plus traverse of Avon Gorge's main wall. The Equator is a 12 pitch historical classic which we managed in 7 ...
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from Mountains and Water
This year a remarkable anniversary in the sport of climbing has gone virtually unnoticed. I was particularly reminded of it when I sat down to talk with John Gill yesterday in Pueblo at a local coffee place. In the spring of 1961, over fifty years ago, according to an interview in the first edition of Master of Rock, John Gill did the first ascent of the Thimble Overhang, a 30-foot problem/route that became legendary in the history of world climbing. Climbed onsight solo over a very serious landing, it was
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
On the first free ascent of Bongo Bar, Blamman, Norway. 400m, 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b. Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions.More pictures on the Gore-Tex facebook page shortly, and also on Julia's blog and Hot Aches blog . Between the three of us, we have climbed a ton of superb granite routes during our stay in Kvaloya. Some of the classic established routes, which are as good as anywhere in the world, and a few great new routes. But before coming here, the biggest thing in my mind that I
published: 9 months ago
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
Unaweep Wall lies on the west end of Unaweep Canyon just outside Grand Junction, Colorado. It is a granite and metamorphic gneiss over looked and under used rock climbing mecca. Most of the noteworthy and established climbing is at the east end of the canyon on smaller features from sandstone boulders to 600 ft granite walls. Traditional routes are the main attraction, but more and more mixed and sport routes are being established by myself, Jesse and others. At 1300ft tall, Unaweep Wall is imposing and
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from James Pearson
Since Canada I have been in real adventure mode; exploring, questing, learning, suffering, progressing and resting, usually in the middle of the mountains, with no phone or internet. The reason - Joy Division, a 20 pitch route on the Qualido wall, Val Di Mello. The result – sore muscles, sorer skin, and a fast track course in Big wall bumbling. A Brief History of the route... Climbing on Qualido dates back to 1978, and as expected, a whole host of mixed (aid and free) routes appeared over the next
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
On June 8th I rolled into the Valley with plans to do two things. One was an all disabled ascent of El Cap, and two, was a one-day ascent of the Nose. I picked up my partner Jarem in Fresno and we chatted about doing Lurking Fear on the Capitan. The first day of free climbing broke one prototype foot, and a little of his confidence, but we pushed on. Two days later and 500 feet up the route, his leg fell off, yes, off…Luck was with us as it got stuck in a sling he had cleaned and swung under him like a
published: 11 months ago
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