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To blog or not to blog...

Image from Google ....that has been the question for me the last couple of weeks. And after several emails from winter enthusiasts requesting info on conditions & asking if I was going to blog, I have decided to BLOG! So winter has kind of kicked off in the mountains of Snowdonia, then seems to be fizzling out again as I type. Last weekend saw lots of ascents of easy mixed routes/ridges etc & a few gullies being done (although most out of desperation I think) There is still a decent amount on snow around higher up, but its


Denali Update

Image from Google Rob Gowler called in from High Camp. They are taking a rest day today which will set them up for a summit day tomorrow weather permitting. Everyone was well and Erin was cooking up another round of hash browns when the call came in. Forrest called in from 7800'. Everyone was well, but they were waiting for the fog to lift and a freeze to set in before moving to basecamp. Hopefully they will be moving again tonight. We'll keep you posted when we hear. Standing by, Colby


Gear Box: Brooks-Range Alpini 30 Sleeping Bag

Image from Google One of the keys to a good camping trip is, without a doubt, a quality sleeping bag. You can put up with inclement weather, going days without a hot shower, and endure mediocre camp food, but when it comes time to sleep, you need to be comfortable. This is true in every season, ranging from the sub-zero temperatures of winter to the scorching hot of summer. Recently I had the opportunity to test out the new Alpini 30 Sleeping Bag from Brooks Range and as usual with gear from BR, I found it a more than ...


Carn an t-Sagairt Beag from Ballochbuie Forest

Crossing the Feindallacher Burn is normally no problem, simply step on a couple of boulders and you're over. Today it was still in spate and we headed upstream to the bridge. The big melt of the last 48 hours had dislodged it and the crossing was precarious. Looking North towards The Cairngorms. Linking snow patches between the heather initially we skied from 600 metres. Higher up the cover is still good but no more skiing back to the car for the moment. At the profile site the probe went all the way in; 3


A cold winter: Happy Pants and "Layering."

February was a tough month to be an ice climber in Canmore, especially compared to 2010. In 2010 I remember walking into climbs and working out in the back yard wearing nothing on m upper body but a T-shirt regularly. That means the high temp for the day was often above freezing. Getting in and out of the Ghost wasn't too bad in general, but this year it's been routinely impassable without chains and multiple vehicles to yank the stuck one out. We rely on chinooks in Alberta to melt out the snow with ...


Helmcken Falls Wrap Up: WI3+ routes etc.

Image from Google On Saturday EJ and I returned from Helmcken Falls. Tim Emmett had to head out a day early due to slideshow obligations in the UK, but we all had at the climbing there for another few days. The stoke level is high! Tim wrapped in from the lip of the falls to see if the "ice" on the headwall was climbable. This year it isn't, mostly snow, but I've seen photos from years where it is. EJ and I bolted sideways for another 30 feet on the headwall before the spray pattern changed, and we had to bail before ...


James Kelly reports on Idwal - Sun 29th Jan

Image from Google Had the following email from James late this afternoon: Hi Andy, We (James and Andy) decided to head up to idwal stream today after yesterdays report of Ice on the route, got on the route at 7.30am conditions climable although not a lot of opportunity to place ice screws. Another 3 teams on the route behind us, the whole route could do with a bit more of a freeze which should happen over the next few days. 1 team of 3 on the ramp again looked a bit thin but claimable, Bottom of South Gully looks claimable


The shadowy internal world of the snowpack

Sometimes a cornice will creep or slump rather than completely collapse. This usually happens when the temperature is close to freezing and the snow quite ductile. At lower temperatures any failure tends to be more brittle, which is more likely to lead to complete collapse. This creeping and deformation sometimes opens up a large cracks a little way back from the edge. In Coire Dubh on Aonach Mor, about a 30 metre long section of cornice slumped earlier this week, producing a crack wide enough to climb ...


More Idwal info from Carl

Image from Google Hi Andy, Dave , Neil and I walked into Idwal this morning in light snow and a definate warmer feel, with a light breeze. We had a look at the Screen which looked doable but it was thin and we thought gear maybe a little dubious. The Ramp looked good so we had go at that which had good ice where expected. Ice drips were freezing on our sacks so it was still well below freezing. Dave and Neil had to get back this afternoon, so we ran out of time to do anything else. Walked down past Devil's pastures which


9 Day Weather Forecast for 1089 m altitude, issued (local time): 11 am 28 Nov 2010

Image from Google Days 0-3 Weather Summary: A dusting of new snow. Temperatures will be below freezing (max -5°C on Mon morning, min -11°C on Sun morning). Winds increasing (calm on Sun afternoon, fresh winds from the ENE by Tue night). Days 4-6 Weather Summary: A dusting of new snow. Temperatures will be well below freezing (max -6°C on Fri morning, min -13°C on Thu night). Winds decreasing (fresh winds from the ENE on Wed afternoon, calm by Fri morning). Days 7-9 Weather Summary: A dusting of new snow. Temperatures