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New V14 In Finland By Nalle Hukkataival

Image from Google Fresh off a trip to Font, Nalle Hukkataival returned to a project in his native Finland that he was finally able to dispatch after a prolonged effort: It’s a great problem on bulletproof granite and climbs extremely well. Every move requires lots of body tension and shoulder strength. It climbs very differently than granite usually [...] New V14 In Finland By Nalle Hukkataival from Climbing Narcissist Become a fan of ClimbingNarc.com on Facebook Related posts: Climbing Video: Nalle Hukkataival In Finland


Swiss Bavarian Climbing Expedition to Quvnerit Island

South Greenland 2011, Swiss-Bavarian Climbing Expedition to Quvnerit Island The South of Greenland offers an incredible wealth of technical rock climbing on big granite faces, some of them directly over the ocean. Tasermiut Fjord has seen most of the climbing activity of the last decades, but some climbers have ventured further south to climb on the more remote islands and fjords around the Inuit settlement of Aappilattoq. Huge routes have gone up in the Torssukatak Fjord, on Pamiagdluk Island and on other


The Foundation of Modern Climbing: The 50th Anniversary of John Gill Ascent of theThimble

This year a remarkable anniversary in the sport of climbing has gone virtually unnoticed. I was particularly reminded of it when I sat down to talk with John Gill yesterday in Pueblo at a local coffee place. In the spring of 1961, over fifty years ago, according to an interview in the first edition of Master of Rock, John Gill did the first ascent of the Thimble Overhang, a 30-foot problem/route that became legendary in the history of world climbing. Climbed onsight solo over a very serious landing, it was


Jorge Ackermann

I was born in Bariloche, a ski town in Northern Patagonia. When I turn six, I started skiing and with skiing began my love for the mountains. I spent my teens climbing and skiing around Refugio Frey where I met the people that inspired me to climb big mountains. Eventually after hearing so many stories about the Fitz Roy and the Cerro Torre I decided to go see for myself what the fuss was all about. I headed south, crossing the Estepa with 500 pesos in my pockets and hand-me down climbing gear. Once in El


STS2011 – Round Two – Glenmore Lodge

Image from Google Saturday October 22, 2011 Description: Timings: Registration at 09.00. Briefing at 9.30 Qualifiers from 9:30am c3:00pm ,  Finals from 4pm. Route setting: The indoor wall The granite towers Dry tooling wall. Sponsors: Equipment: Crampons required for routes on the granite towers. Tools and spikes available for hire for a small fee from the [...]


Bongo Bar first free ascent, Blamman

On the first free ascent of Bongo Bar, Blamman, Norway. 400m, 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b. Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions.More pictures on the Gore-Tex facebook page shortly, and also on Julia's blog and Hot Aches blog . Between the three of us, we have climbed a ton of superb granite routes during our stay in Kvaloya. Some of the classic established routes, which are as good as anywhere in the world, and a few great new routes. But before coming here, the biggest thing in my mind that I


Bongo Bar, Norway.... or as I like to call it 'Um Bongo'!

I've just spent two weeks shooting stills and video for the Gore Tex Experiace Tour - Norway. The 'tour' gave two winner of a competition, Julia Snihur and Helena Robinson, the chance to climb and explore Arctic Norway with Dave MacLeod. Dave MacLeod, Helena Robinson, Julia Snihur below Blamman We were based at Ersfjorden (or as I like to call it Erik's Fjord) just 15min drive from Norway's northern city of Tromso. Tromso reminds me of a little of Inverness, its population is comparable, it's in the far


Robert Pizem To Attempt Unaweep Wall

Image from Google Unaweep Wall lies on the west end of Unaweep Canyon just outside Grand Junction, Colorado. It is a granite and metamorphic gneiss over looked and under used rock climbing mecca. Most of the noteworthy and established climbing is at the east end of the canyon on smaller features from sandstone boulders to 600 ft granite walls. Traditional routes are the main attraction, but more and more mixed and sport routes are being established by myself, Jesse and others. At 1300ft tall, Unaweep Wall is imposing and


Ersfjord new route

Centre Court 8b/+ first ascent, Tunga, Ersfjord. Gore-Tex jacket keeping the finishing hold dry until Donald pulled it away at the last moment. More pics on the Gore-Tex Experience Tour page here. When jumping around the huge boulderfield at Ersfjord, one boulder stood out and had me clambering straight for it and uncoiling my rope. Tunga is a huge leaning fin of granite. Currently home to the route Piercing (8b+ and currently the hardest route in northern Norway). I spotted a nice looking line leading ...


Norway Day 3

Julia exploring granite boulders, Blammanen. All pics by Paul Diffley/Hot Aches. Paul's uploaded a nice gallery of pics to the Gore-Tex facebook page. Helena enjoying warm sunshine and cool shade in Ersfjord Julia working Ramadan, 8a, Ersfjord Today we are resting sore fingers from the Ersfjord granite in Norway, for a morning at least. Later, I’m off for a proper explore of the faces and boulders above Ersfjord itself. Things have been going up and down here over the past 2 days, as is normal for the