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The Holidays Are Upon Us...

Image from Google ...and where better to spend them than South East Asia. Avoiding the cold and the snow, adventuring in the jungle, and eating mangos on the beach - not forgetting a little climbing. To make us appreciate the things to come even more, we spent Christmas and New year in a very soggy England, where there are definitely no Mangos - just a LOT of chocolate. Its safe to say that right now I feel like quite the glutton, but luckily Christmas comes but once a year. In addition to the usual orgy of Tonsai, we plan


Gritstone

Image from Google After my all-too-brief stay in North Wales, I went to Sheffield with Alan James director of Rockfax Publishing and UKClimbing . This was a great opportunity to revisit a place I had not been to since college when I spent a couple of semesters at the university and doing a lot of climbing, especially on gritstone. Coming from a background of New Hampshire granite, the cracks and slabs of Peak District gritstone were a natural fit but there was also the allure of entering an intense urban climbing scene, the


A blast from the past - A Gritstone Year

7 years ago today, I fell off soloing on the grit (on a day as hot as it is this Bank Holiday), which ended up in a couple of operations and a big lay off from climbing . At the time my housemate, Kim Leyland, was making a lot of pretty high quality videos under the alias of Beardown Productions , including A Gritstone Year, featuring some of the climbing that Jordan Buys, myself and a few others were doing at the time. A lot of good memories, despite the sharp end to that climbing season. Enjoy and stay


VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival hits the Grit

Last week saw the Climbing Works International Festival (CWIF) in Sheffield. Amongst the many strong climbers who competed in the event was Nalle Hukkataival , the world class Finnish boulderer. Nalle visited the gritstone very briefly on his trip to the UK and below is a video from Ed Radcliffe documenting the evening at Stanage.


Nalle Hukkataival on the Grit

Nalle Hukkataival joins some of Britains strongest climbers including Jon Partridge and Sam Hamer on a stunning evening in the Peak District after the semi-finals of the Climbing Works International Festival, as they try some of the gritstone classics at Stanage Plantation Author: Ed Ratcliffe Climber: Nalle Hukkataival Location: UK Language: EN


Bishop action

Bishop was one of the last big bouldering areas I had not previously visited, so It was cool to be able to climb lots of problems each day. That's something I rarely get to do these days. Repeating the area classics was great, but did not leave much time for projects. FA of The Swarm Direct (V13) I did however get the first ascent of the direct finish to The Swarm after rappelling down and cleaning it. The first two moves are the same as the original line, but after the crux instead of doing the double ...


Photo Shot...

Image from Google The road back to Margalef seemed long and slow, but eventually we found the Refugi, and soon after sleep found us. With the last day dawning clear and blue, we had many options for places to climb, but settled on the easy choice of Laboratory as unfinished business is a strong lure. For those that don’t know the Laboratory I will give you a quick run down... Its very short, less than 20m, and steep, very steep, except at either end where it becomes very very steep. It is predominantly climbing on ...


UKC Photo Galleries Tell A Story

Image from Google Most of the top ten photos on UKC this week are recent shots of a mixture of rock climbing on gritstone and winter climbing throughout the UK. This week's number one photograph is of John Roberts climbing Embankment Route 2 at Millstone - without axes and crampons - and is a great visual reminder of how superb a winter's day on the grit can be.


VIDEOS: Jordan and Pete Tearing up the Grit

Pete Whittaker and Jordan Buys have been taking advantage of the cold weather and getting a whole load of hard grit routes ticked.


Pain, Comfort, Satisfaction

There are a lot of different kinds of pain, and any sane person tries to avoid most of them. It's human nature to want to be "comfortable." Some kinds of pain should be avoided: torn muscles, snapped tendons, relationship drama (all super damaging to training effectively and therefore to performance), but I make my best training gains when I push into areas of pain, especially mental pain, and all pain is mental.... I think embracing pain and becoming comfortable or even desiring it in training and in ...