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Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 10 (Kalydna, Iannis & Spartacus)

Keywords:
Bo, SPARTACUS, yo, Susy, nuts, Owen, hangers, anchors, 7b, Andy

Day seven of climbing. Perhaps the highlight day so far? I don't know, you be the judge. We started with a group vote on where we wanted to go for the final four climbing days of the trip. Plans were made, guidebooks were consulted, and dates were made with dogs that had been left behind at various cliffs to date. KALYDNA If you were playing along at home you know we went to Kalydna on day two . You'll also know that Owen, Andy and Susy found a friend for life in the 30m Nickel which is a 7a+ pitch which


Mail Bag: Tied Off Screws

First, sorry for the delay in posting. I've been on a speaking tour, an 80-hour first aid course and some other busy sports actopm. But all good! I answer a fair number of questions about ice, rock and paragliding gear and tactics. I try to always reply to these emails, but it recently hit me that readers of this blog might enjoy the answers as well. I'll try to post some of them up here for grins, using sorta made-up names. Got a question? Send it in, I'll get on it, thanks. Tied Off Ice Screws: Hi Will,


October 30, 2010

Image from Google Route Warning It was brought to my attention yesterday that someone has removed the bolt hangers on the two bolts at the crux of Black Cat Bone.  This would be the 20 feet below the big roof on pitch 6.  Now who in blazes would steal the hangers off the crux on a nine pitch [...]


The Tehipite Sanction

Image from Google The Tehipite Sanction by Rob Pizem Tehipite dome lies in the northern portion of Kings Canyon National Park, about a mile away from the Sierra National Forest boundary. But that is not where this story begins. I had planned on a summer adventure in Alaska where my partners and I would have to trek through the bush, cross icy rivers, navigate unknown glaciers, and finally end up at an enormous unclimbed big wall. We would make base camp and establish an amazing new free route on the virgin stone. ...


Welsh Slate - Bolts Stripped in Access Scare

Popular venue of Dali's Hole has hangers removed as access worries sky rocket: An increase in popularity of a very public climbing area in the Llanberis slate quarries has caused friction between climbers and the land owner. Climbers have now removed bolt hangers from the routes to reduce visitor numbers. "Please, if you're thinking of heading to Dali's, think again of where else you could go..."


Simple Tricks for Speed on Multi-Pitch Ice Routes

After a week with my friend Andreas Spak in Norway I've got some things to say about speed on big routes. Andreas climbs faster than most, is always up for a big route, and is tough enough to get the job done, but I always seem to learn or re-learn some stuff when doing big new routes with him in Norway. Here are a few "speed" tricks for big routes that are primarily multi-pitch without walking steps (those steps call for T Bloks etc., not covered here). -Use a single 70M rope to lead on. This cuts ...