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Training on the job

How on earth? I did have a plan to do a few easy winter routes before trying a couple of harder new lines I have an eye on, but curiosity for the hard routes rapidly got the better of that. I just had three tries on a fantastic new line with a 6 metre horizontal roof. The first attempt was a bit of a poor show to be totally honest. Climbing with tools is definitely feeling a bit alien still, so I did a lot of craning my neck looking up at it and making various excuses. There’s nothing wrong with doing a


Trad climbing’s survival in a material world, by Stevie umpayed Haston.

Trad climbing’s survival in a material world, by Stevie umpayed Haston. Trad climbing is certainly doomed from what I have seen lately, the once and only way to climb is now just a circus side show! The free climbing ethic grew very slowly over many years until it became established in its proper form in the 1970s, there were many fight arguments and discussions along the way. There were also great climbers and some great impassioned ascents that showed that it was all possible. Out of the many examples


A perfect mountain

Image from Google Posted By Steve Mc Clure the 2011-10-27 Bits of rock can look pretty much the same, it doesn’t matter where you are in the world. Big features, crazy formations, caves, pinnacles, whatever; up close and pulling hard, rock is rock. In a place like China you need to escape the system and explore the view, just to know where you are, or you might as well have stayed home! Petzl needed some filming for their new helmets and reverse 4, the stuff needed for a multi pitch. I was called in, partner to be ...


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 9 (Odyssey & Goat's Bitchin')

Time is ticking by and when you hit day five of climbing and realise there's only five climbing days to go it's panic mode! Ahh, cobras! ODYSSEY You guys know all about Odyssey now. You don't need me to tell you that it is the single most varied and diverse crag at Kalymnos and hosts the biggest grade range of any sector (3s to 9s). Could this be why it draws the climbing celebrities? Recognise this guy? Yep, none other than climbing superstar Iker Pou . Rumour has it that he has been sent here on a secret


Friends, places, actions... and smiles. Always.

Posted By Liv Sansoz the 2011-10-19 I haven't written since a very long time on my blog. Not that nothing happened in my life. But nothing super exciting. Hum... I should not say that. All depends on what someone put behind the word "exciting". Climbing hard routes ? Then for sure I did nothing "exciting" since I was injured. Doing what I love ? Then I did a lot of "exciting" things... even injured ;) I realized the fact I was injured and I can not climb the way I would like to was not a reason for not ...


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 5 (Ghost Kitchen and Odyssey)

Ghost Kitchen is a cool sector. If you're climbing around 6c, it's probably the premiere pick of places to climb on the island. The central part of the sector is an orange main wall which is just barely overhanging, which has resulted in the creation of huge tufa curtains and blobs the size of ponies sticking horizontally out from the wall. On either side of the main wall are grey slabs which offer routes from roughly 6a to 7a, if you're into that kind of thing. When we walked up the hill to the cliff, it


Swiss Bavarian Climbing Expedition to Quvnerit Island

South Greenland 2011, Swiss-Bavarian Climbing Expedition to Quvnerit Island The South of Greenland offers an incredible wealth of technical rock climbing on big granite faces, some of them directly over the ocean. Tasermiut Fjord has seen most of the climbing activity of the last decades, but some climbers have ventured further south to climb on the more remote islands and fjords around the Inuit settlement of Aappilattoq. Huge routes have gone up in the Torssukatak Fjord, on Pamiagdluk Island and on other


Sasha DiGiulian rocks Rodellar, Bielsa and Margalef

Image from Google Interview with Sasha DiGiulian after her recent spate of hard routes in Rodellar, Bielsa and Margalef in Spain.


Chuck Frybergers New Film The Scene

Image from Google Chuck Fryberger's latest film is premiering at the Boulder Theater tonight so I thought I would give a quick review of it. I have been a big fan of his previous films, Pure and Core, films which garnered mixed reviews from audiences owing in part to Chuck's willingness to experiment with locations, filming techniques, and offbeat themes. With The Scene, those concerns can be set aside. Beautiful camera work, check. Hard routes and problems, check. Interviews with climbing stars, check. But aside from Dave


Chris Sharma Video Interview

Image from Google Just came across this video interview of Chris Sharma, the first in a series of five being put out by Sterling Rope. Its a fun glimpse into his daily routine of projecting hard routes, with of course a little plug for Sterling at the end. Enjoy! Chris Sharma Sterling and Climbing from sterling rope on [...]