from The Alpinist - newswire
Between July 22, 2011, and August 28, 2011, Russian/Ukrainian climbers Marina Kopteva, Galina Chibitok and Anna Yasinskaya spent thirty-eight days establishing a new route, Parallelniy Mir (VI+ 6b A3), on the northwest face of Great Trango Tower (6238m). The team was recently voted the recipients the Russian Piolet d'Or, the first all-women's team to receive the award. Great Trango Tower, first climbed in 1977 by Dennis Hennek, Jim Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell and Kim Schmitz is located on the
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
Pitch 1 (wet 7c+) of Ring of Fire during the first ascent in Peak Cavern. All pics Triple Echo Productions. The other shoot I just finished with Triple Echo for the BBC was even weirder than the Handa adventure! The director Richard Else managed to get special permission to climb in the show cave Peak Cavern near Castleton right in the middle of the Peak District. The idea was for myself and Alan Cassidy to see if we could find a route out of it! Peak Cavern, otherwise known as 'The Devil's Arse' is one of
published: 6 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
American climbers Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk climbed Meru Central (6310m) via the Shark's Fin in a twelve-day push. They summited on October 2 to become the first team to complete this highly sought-after objective. The Shark's Fin has repelled many experienced alpinists, with attempts on this line numbering in the dozens. This was Anker's third attempt to establish a route up the Fin, and the second attempt for both Chin and Ozturk. Over the years, the trio has accumulated thirty-plus days
published: 7 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Keywords:
Shark's Fin,
Chin,
climb,
Anker,
all-star team,
Ozturk,
route,
team,
21,850 ft,
extremely tough overhanging headwall
An all-star team of climbers, that includes Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk, successfully sumitted the North West Face of the Shark's Fin route on Meru Peak in India last week. The mountain, which stands 6660 meters (21,850 ft) in height, is located in the Garhwal Himalaya, and had never been climbed along this route before. The Shark's Fin is well known in mountaineering circles for its diverse challenges. It begins with a typical Himalayan snow and ice route, but then turns into a tough ...
published: 7 months ago
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from Upskill Climbing
Ghost Kitchen is a cool sector. If you're climbing around 6c, it's probably the premiere pick of places to climb on the island. The central part of the sector is an orange main wall which is just barely overhanging, which has resulted in the creation of huge tufa curtains and blobs the size of ponies sticking horizontally out from the wall. On either side of the main wall are grey slabs which offer routes from roughly 6a to 7a, if you're into that kind of thing. When we walked up the hill to the cliff, it
published: 7 months ago
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from Dave MacLeod Climbing
The belay in sight at the end of Maxwell’s Demon 8b+, Steall during the first ascent. Pic by Steven Gordon. Steven has uploaded a nice gallery from the day on his site here. It’s not so often I get to the chain on two sport projects at Steall in one day, never mind two first ascents. Finally a break the humidity allowed me to get some redpoints in. First off, I took an interest in an old project climbing straight through the central cave, taking in the crux of Arcadia and breaking out onto the headwall
published: 9 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
According to Fred Beckey in Cascade Alpine Guide, "Mount Stuart has been pronounced the single greatest mass of exposed granite in the United States and dominates the Central Washington Cascades." Jens Holsten recently added a direct variation to Gorillas in the Mist (5.11) up Stuart Peak. Holsten along with partners Mark Westman and Sol Wertkin added five pitches to the original Gorillas in the Mist route that he established last year with Wertkin and Blake Herrington. Gorillas in the Mist, on the West
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from Arc'teryx Latest News
Sweating hard, I took another step and plunged boot-deep in the soft snow. The rope pulled sharply at my harness. “You need to slow down dude, I can’t go as fast as you,” Chris urged. He was right; we were gaining nothing by working this hard on the approach. It was 11:00 am, the sun, a rare-sight in this mountain range, was shining brightly down on us. The snow was isothermal. The mighty east face of Cerro Torre leered above, taunting me. This was the culmination of a season spent biding time, ...
published: 11 months ago
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from James Pearson
The 4th pitch roof of La Cardaire The next project is underway, and has already begun gathering speed. I have started to become more and more intrigued by the world of hard multi-pitch and big walls and over the last few months have started to make my first visits to this world. The eventual idea is to create something very long, very hard, and very scary, but this final phase is still quite a long way off in the future. Now is the time to begin developing the necessary skills, by attempting and repeating
published: 11 months ago
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from 2010 Mountaineering Season
Photo of a group on the headwall. The lowest climber on the ropes is just about to cross the bergschrund. Some seasons this bergschrund is much more difficult than shown in the picture. The 3rd climber from the top is hunched over clipping his or her rope through a piece of fixed protection. The top climber looks like they are almost at the top of the fixed lines, but I bet he/she is only half way there. If you look closely you can see another set of fixed lins just to the left of this team, those lines
published: 11 months ago
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