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The Ascent Of Rum Doodle

Image from Google Whilst dining at the Rum Doodle restaurant in Kathmandu after the ascent of Baruntse Mera Peak , I decided to buy ‘The Ascent of Rum Doodle’ by W.E. Bowman. I had heard great reviews from the leaders and people who had previously read the book which is held in high regard among climbers. Reading the book is a delight, and the story pure genius. As I cannot do the book sufficient justice, below is an extract. If you understand the humour of this page and have never read the book, I strongly urge you to


Leading confidence - a worthy enemy

Recently I’ve been coaching a lot of sport climbing and spent lots of time trying to get climbers to recognise that leading confidence is placing a huge barrier in the way of improving almost any aspect of their climbing. What I’ve noticed is that climbers with leading confidence issues are desperate to avoid tackling it despite appearing quite highly motivated to make changes in most other areas of their climbing skills. Taking the first step in attacking leading confidence just feels so painful and


Kalymnos 2011 - Trip Report 11 (The finale! Odyssey & the SG)

This is the end my friends. The final trip report from Upskill 2011 Kalymnos climbing camps. This'll be a good-un though, so read on for your last little hit of Kalymnos for the year. ODYSSEY A bit of a fave, you've probably gathered by now. Day nine of climbing and there were some tired bodies! But only two days of climbing left, so time to pull out all the stops and give it heaps! Besides, it had to be Odyssey, as Bo refused to leave the island without Atena 6b+ in her satchel. We headed up to the left


The limiting factor - setting

The limiting factor in your rate of improvement can sometimes be something that never changes throughout your climbing career. That’s not to say they are inescapable, just that folk simply never take the bull by the horns and change them. ‘Permanent’ limiting factors are things like only climbing a couple of times a week, avoiding overhangs, never learning how to try hard or focus, or being scared of falling. Other limiting factors are more often important for part of your career. Things such as ...


10 Tips to Improve Your Bouldering

Image from Google This article won’t make you improve your bouldering out of all proportion, overnight, but it might help you to start the process of improvement. I recently found myself in a bit of a rut with my climbing, a bit of a sticking point in my development. If that sounds like a familiar feeling to you, [...] 10 Tips to Improve Your Bouldering is a post from: Rock Climbing UK , an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers. If you liked this post, you might also like: Climbing techniques


Climbing training tips based on YOUR level

Climbing is an incredibly complex sport. It's not like throwing a javelin. There are so many different factors that come into play and require training. Also, it's worth remembering that what one climber sees as improvement (or success) doesn't necessarily equal improvement for another. Someone might aspire towards pure gymnastic difficulty (grades) while someone else might value variety, or volume, or style, or the social aspect of climbing or just having fun. Usually it's a combination. In the case of


Tour 2011: Sprinting Ahead

Image from Google If you were looking for excitement and fireworks on the Tour de France , today was not the day to tune in. The 218km (135.44 mile) stage 7 was mostly flat and fast, which predictably made it a day for the sprinters to show off their talents, with a just as predictable winner. It was Mark Cavendish of HTC - Highroad who claimed his 17th career stage win today by out sprinting Alessandro Petacchi andAndré Greipel to the line. Cavendish's team mates shadowed him well all day long, and led him not only to the


The Gainesville Rock Gym

Image from Google A lot has happened since my last post. As most of you know, my residence in Boulder has come to an end and I've moved to Gainesville, FL. Needless to say, things are a bit different here. The people are larger, the food is greasier and the landscape is flatter. At least there's a climbing gym... The Gainesville Rock Gym, vertical toproping, overhang/"lead" wall in the back And that's what I want to talk about today: the merits and failings of the Gainesville Rock Gym . I've been in Gainesville for about


Access Fund Climbing Preservation Grant

Image from Google The Access Fund recently released the first list of recipients for the 2011 Climbing Preservation Grant. Over $18,000 was given to seven different climbing and land management groups across the country. The grants are awarded twice a year to worthy individuals and grassroots organizations whose goals and mission reflect those of the Access Fund and the nearly 2.3 million climbers it represents. Unaweep Canyon near Grand Junction, CO has seen a lot of positive change since local climbers and the Access Fund


For climbing coaches : “In a Hurricaine…

...even Turkeys can fly” I go on in my book and this blog a lot about influences and their importance on how well we climb. The above quote, reminded to me by a CEO talking about economics, made me nod and agree. In a social group of climbers, like a group of friends, a climbing wall scene, a club etc there are some who are the beacons - they have so much energy and drive that it radiates onto everyone else nearby and helps them learn more, have that extra attempt, try that different foot sequence or ...