from Petzl Crew
Keywords:
Gabriele Moroni,
personnal blog,
Coup de Bambou,
day,
moves,
9a,
slopers,bad footholds,
Photo Beau Kahler,
precise moves,
Photo Beau Kahler 5.10
Gabriele Moroni our italian team athlete, has finally redpointed the route named "Coup de Bambou" (9a), one of the hardest picthes in the Great Arch! Here are some words from his personnal blog : Gabriele Moroni : "First day I climb on easier stuffs and learn the style. I decide to attack on my second day! Already on my first try I'm able to do all the moves... as I thought the bottom part suits well my climbing... about 30° steep wall, big but precise moves, pinches, edges and a few balls features! And
published: 6 months ago
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downloaded: 6 months ago
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from Petzl Blog
Posted By Petzl Crew the 2011-11-04 Gabriele Moroni our italian team athlete, has finally redpointed the route named "Coup de Bambou" (9a), one of the hardest picthes in the Great Arch! Here are some words from his personnal blog :
published: 6 months ago
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downloaded: 6 months ago
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28 views
from The Alpinist - newswire
S isters Pat Deavoll and Christine Byrch of New Zealand have established a new route on northern Afghanistan's Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6515m), making the second ascent of the mountain since the original 1963 Italian ascent. Inaccessible to climbers for decades, the Wakhan Corridor region has seen increasing climber traffic since Carlo Alberto Pinelli's expedition to Noshaq (7492m) in 2003 --- including an attempted second ascent of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi by another Italian team in 2008. Deavoll and Byrch made their
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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from The Adventure Blog
Yesterday I mentioned that news out of the Karakoram has been a bit slow so far this year, but that teams were arriving in Base Camps and that things would pick-up soon. Turns out that was a prophetic, if obvious, thing to say, as we have news today of a major success in the mountain range, as well as an early summit bid that was turned back. First, the British Mountaineering Council is reporting that four Russians have claimed the first ascent of the West Face of Latok III . The team, which includes ...
published: 11 months ago
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downloaded: 11 months ago
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from The Alpinist - newswire
In the May 2, 2010 NewsWire , Alpinist reported that three Germans had reached the west summit (2145m) of Monte Sarmiento, Tierra del Fuego, Chile. Our story also said that the Germans believed they had made the first ascent of Sarmiento's north face. However, further research suggests that a 1986 Ragni di Lecco Italian party--the first climbers to reach Sarmiento's west summit--had also ascended the north face. Now, if only we knew who they were. Normally with a discovery of this nature, Alpinist.com ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Adventure Blog
It seems like things are still quieting down in the Himalaya, and already the Karakorum is beginning to see signs of life for the 2010 season. ExWeb is reporting that teams have already begun to arrive in Pakistan , and are now making their plans for the weeks ahead. One of the teams currently en route to the region consists of Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalza. This very experienced Basque team is hoping to make a complete traverse of the 26,414-foot tall Broad Peak. That mountain gets
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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from The Adventure Blog
The weekend news from the Himalaya begins with Andrew Lock , who reached the summit of Shisha Pangma last Friday, claiming his final 8000 meter peak, and becoming the the 15th person to summit all 14. The details on the climb are still a bit thin, but judging from his latest dispatch , it sounds like things were a bit treacherous on the descent. Andrew reached the true summit on Shisha, along with Neil Ward, but on their way down they were forced to camp, without gear, at 7600 meters. They did return to BC
published: over 2 years ago
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from The Adventure Blog
The Fall Season is starting to wind down in the Himalaya, but there are plenty of teams still working hard to achieve their goals and reach the summits on their respective mountains. Sadly, one of those teams has had to call it quits, as the North Face Trilogy Expedition has decided to go home, thanks to China closing the borders of Tibet until at least the 8th of October. The team had originally planned climb Cho Oyu, with one of its members making a snowboard descent from the summit. Once they were back
published: over 2 years ago
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from The Adventure Blog
I meant to post something on this a few days back, but didn't have the chance, but felt it is too important to not mention. On Sunday, the mountaineering community lost a true legend, as Dr. Charlie Houston passed away at the age of 96. He was instrumental in some of the early climbs in the Himalaya by American teams, and did some ground breaking research on the effects of altitude as well. Back in 1936, Houston was a member of the first team to climb Nanda Devi in India. At the time, it was the tallest
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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from The Adventurist
K2climb.net is reporting that famed K2 first ascenter Achille Compagnoni has died at a hospital in northern Italy at the age of 94. Compagnoni was one of two Italians that were finally able to conquer what many consider the worlds toughest peak to climb. The big ascent finally came in 1954 after a series of failed attempts on the second highest peak in the world. Achille Compagnoni achieved the summit with fellow Italian teammate Lino Lacedelli. There was controversy about this first ascent. Years
published: over 3 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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75 views
