from Upskill Climbing
Only a few days to go until Kalymnos 2011, so time to get some training in on something steep. Frey Yule's route Evel Knievel 29/8a at Coolum was a likely target. It starts up Evil Wears No Pants 30/8a+ with a burly, 70 degree overhung, 11 move boulder to a good kneebar before cutting a traverse directly left for several bodylengths and then a transition back to "up" climbing to finish up the last three or so bolts of the route Ground Control . I'd been on the route in March this year while conditions were
published: 8 months ago
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downloaded: 8 months ago
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71 views
from Dave MacLeod Climbing
The belay in sight at the end of Maxwell’s Demon 8b+, Steall during the first ascent. Pic by Steven Gordon. Steven has uploaded a nice gallery from the day on his site here. It’s not so often I get to the chain on two sport projects at Steall in one day, never mind two first ascents. Finally a break the humidity allowed me to get some redpoints in. First off, I took an interest in an old project climbing straight through the central cave, taking in the crux of Arcadia and breaking out onto the headwall
published: 9 months ago
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downloaded: 9 months ago
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101 views
from Mountains and Water
The little problem called Hardboiled in Boulder Canyon has been getting quite a lot of attention recently. First ascended by Daniel Woods about 7 years ago, it quickly became part of a circuit of V10/11 problems in the canyon. Most recently a number of ascents included a strapped-on kneepad and it was clear that what had been a reasonably soft 8a was something else. Ryan Silven was the first to state the obvious by climbing it both ways. For the 8a version he wrote, " sans kneebars. the sequence is ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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55 views
from Upskill Climbing
Our latest film sees young Queensland climber Matt Schimke well outside his comfort zone on the power endurance testpiece Beautiful Thing (28/7c+) at The Pulpit . Matt has only been climbing since 2008 but rapidly progressed through the grades culminating in his 2010 ascent of Evil Wears No Pants (30/8a+) at Mount Coolum . Still in school, with a mad obsession for climbing and no car has seen Matt's efforts concentrated at Mt Coolum , his local crag. The local style is super steep and chock full of ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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109 views
from Upskill Climbing
It's been a while so I thought I'd let you know that we're still alive here in Thailand, which, while hot and humid, is a much better proposition than being at home in Brisbane where there has been catastrophic flooding (it's world news). On that front, thankfully our woody (with house attached) is okay. But some of our friends and family have not been so lucky and it's with mixed feelings we continue the last portion of our world climbing tour while they are going through hell with the clean-up. Our ...
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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124 views
from Upskill Climbing
Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado USA. Where the strong come to send (eventually) and the weak come to weep. First impressions? Way more beautiful than I expected. Rifle is a long canyon with 60-80m high limestone walls on either side (which means there's always shade, even in summer) and a rushing alpine stream running through the middle. The stream is conveniently filled with brown trout so you'll share the campsite with fisherman and camping families. Bring your fishing gear or buy a complete setup for $16
published: about 1 year ago
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downloaded: about 1 year ago
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68 views
from Upskill Climbing
Yesterday I managed to do something I've been dreaming of trying since 2007 when I first saw it. I climbed the mega line of the Grande Grotta , Fun de chichuune 8a. The route is 40m long and it's essentially a roof for most of its length. As you can see in the photos below, you climb through blobs and stalactites, interspersed with scary blank sections. It is #8 on this topo. There were tons of kneebars and other creative rests along the way. I spent most of the time hanging upside down by my knees. The
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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62 views
from Upskill Climbing
Okay, well now I know. Fine. So there's this goat, right? She hangs out at the base of Afternoon sector. We think she's pregnant. She'll sit, or stand, unmoving, at the base of one of the routes. Usually the goats are skittish. Not this girl. She stands her ground. You want to stand there to belay? Tough. Dave Bateman and the other Aussies Brad and Adam met her on their first day. They turned their backs briefly, only to turn around and discover her casually flipping through pages in their guidebook. It
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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43 views
from Upskill Climbing
Hey again. It dawned on us a little bit cold and a little bit windy. Good friction though! The module we completed in the morning over breakfast was on "The art of warming up" and it was an appropriate one for the day. The sector Spartacus is one of my favourites. I think the group is getting sick of me saying something is my favourite. They're all my favourites! Well, not really, but there's so many good things here. Spartacus is a large orange bowl, with long tufa-streaked vertical walls on either side,
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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55 views
from Upskill Climbing
It's THE most famous area on the island. A truly world class cave, possibly the most heavily stalactite-laden climbing cave in the world. You call it the Grande Grotta . We call it today's playground :) Seriously, the Grande Grotta is spectacular. You've never seen such rock architecture, absolute chock-covered with dripping stalactites. It's crazy. And the routes are crazy. We had a sprinkle of rain in the morning. That was all it took to ensure we'd have a crowd up in the cave sector, where you can be
published: over 2 years ago
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downloaded: over 2 years ago
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75 views
